This week on Refinery29, we’re filling your screens and consciousness with inspiring women over 50. Why? Because living in a culture obsessed with youth is exhausting for everyone. Ageing is a privilege, not something to dread. Welcome to Life Begins At...
Fashion has a big problem with older women. It values smooth-skinned, baby-faced girls, commodities through which we’re sold an unattainable dream. While a woman’s love of fashion, clothes, experimentation and style doesn’t suddenly stop the moment they reach 50, the industry stops viewing them as a viable audience to be marketed to, and so stops trying to appeal to them, despite the fact the over 50s are accountable for 47% of UK consumer spending.
Sure, a few fabulous older women have been the face of brand campaigns in recent years – Joan Didion for Céline, Joni Mitchell for Saint Laurent – but more often than not, fashion aimed at older women is less playful and thrilling and more cosy beige knits from Marks & Spencer and mail-order comfy salmon slacks. If we don’t celebrate freedom of expression in older women, how, when we reach their age, will we be able to celebrate our own?
One of the most sexist and cruel sayings that deters older women from experimenting with their style is "mutton dressed as lamb". When I read a press release telling me the ages that women should stop wearing certain items of clothing – trainers, apparently, cap at 46 years old (they've clearly never seen Stella McCartney and Phoebe Philo don a pair of Stan Smiths), hoodies at 37, and skinny jeans at 45 – I called bullshit. We should be free to wear whatever we like, regardless of age, gender, size, race and sexuality, without having to take others' prejudice into account.
So, as part of Life Begins At, our week of content dedicated to inspiring women over 50, we dressed 86-year-old model Frances in selected pieces wrongly thought to be "inappropriate" for older women. From slogan T-shirts to animal print via denim and high heels, Frances makes getting dressed up look fun. Still unconvinced? Keep scrolling...
Denim
Weekday New York Vest, £55, available at Weekday;and North Carolina Denim Trousers, £70, available at Weekday;Vivienne Westwood Free World Multi Dress, £255, available at Vivienne Westwood; and Free The World Shirt White, £560, available at Vivienne Westwood
Apparently, women should cease wearing denim at 45, packing away their jeans in favour of "age appropriate" snug and soft fabrics like linen and cotton. Denim has forever been associated with youth and rebellion, from Cindy Crawford to Kate Moss, but this is absolutely baffling. Wear denim with thigh pockets and spliced hems and team with printed shirts for in-your-face maximalism. Extra marks for '90s double denim, too.
Slogan Tees
Kwaidan Editions Wool Blazer, £1,340, available at Matches; and High-Rise Wool Trouser, £895, available at Matches; Christopher Kane ‘More Joy’ T-Shirt, £175, available at Christopher Kane
For the past few years, the slogan tee has reigned supreme. While the loud-and-proud statement T-shirt has been worn by everyone from Dior models (inspired by Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie) to Rihanna, the item seems to be reserved for the young. Thirty-seven years old is the cut-off for wearing the playful piece, according to the aforementioned survey. We're saying no to that, and guide you to Christopher Kane’s joyous call to arms. "More Joy" in life? Yes please.
Animal Print
Aries D Dress, £395, available at Aries; Topshop Zebra Print Boxy T-Shirt, £14, available at Topshop and Satin Bias Cut Midi Skirt, £29, available at Topshop
Thirty-seven is the age we’re supposed to put away the animal print. Thirty-seven. Women who wear animal print are bold, and bold women make people feel threatened, so shrug off Pat Butcher insults and instead look to Victoria Beckham’s leopard print coat of the season (she’s 44 by the way), and Balenciaga’s '80s-inspired zebra skirt suit. Mix and match your prints – think cheetah and cow – and make yourself seen and heard.
High Heels
Rejina Pyo Trench Coat, £695, available at Net-A-Porter; Topshop Mixed Check Midi Skirt, £45, available at Topshopand Square Toe Boots, £89, available at Topshop
Apparently, women should kick off their heels aged 46, retiring into Crocs and Birkenstocks and a slow-paced life where no event requires them to dress up and feel glamorous. We have nothing against Birkenstocks and comfortable feet, but the fact that high heels are deemed inappropriate past a certain age enrages us. Wear heels as high as you can walk in – higher if you’re taking a cab – and go for shoes that make you feel confident, be they cult Manolo Blahniks or holographic ankle boots.
Bare Arms
Aries Logo Print Velvet Dress, £698, available at Matches; Topshop Biker Boots, £79, available at Topshop
Women of all ages are made to feel bad about their bodies, but older women are made to feel even worse. Because ageing is a sin and from age 43 (yup) you must cloak yourself head-to-toe like you’ve been banished to a convent. Instead of viewing wrinkled flesh, dark spots and textured veins as things to be concealed, let's see them as marks of strength, character and a life well lived.
Here’s to being an octogenarian in Christopher Kane and Aries – and to a fashion landscape that, rather than isolates, includes and champions older women.
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Since its inception 21 years ago, SCAD Savannah Film Festival has become a key stop for filmmakers and celebrities on the award season festival circuit. Hosted by the Savannah College of Arts and Design (SCAD) and qualified as the nation’s largest university run festival (over 63,000 attendees in 2017), the week-long programming is rooted in education and student integration, elevated by top tier premiere galas, and set against a backdrop bathed in Spanish moss and historic charm.
This year, coveted celebrities including Emily Blunt, John Krasinski, Maggie Gyllenhaal, Hugh Grant, Armie Hammer, Chloe Grace Moretz, and Amandla Stenberg graced the festival to accept their respective ICON achievement awards, screen their films, and teach intimate masterclasses with SCAD students; something each actor noted as being a selling point that enhanced their experience in Savannah. In an era of thought-provoking, societal influencing storytelling, it’s clear mentoring Hollywood’s tomorrow has never been more important than today.
SCAD student mentorship has always been a pivotal component of the festival, with over 700 undergrad volunteers and students lining the streets to get a peek at the red carpets, introduce films, and step out in their finest three-piece suits. Students even had the opportunity to build monumental festival installations, including a collaboration with award-winning costume designer Terry Dresbach creating this year’s Starz Outlander Season Four Costume Exhibit at the SCAD Museum of Art, which debuted alongside the premiere screening with cast and crew present.
Says Dresbach, “The SCAD exhibition team’s expertise in presenting material, lighting design, staging, every aspect has been a revelation. At the end of 6 years of designing the costumes on Outlander, one of the experiences I will most treasure is my interaction with SCAD students. What a remarkable, inspiring group of young artists they are.”
Photo: Dia Dipasupil/Getty Images.
In addition to elevating the next generation of Hollywood, SCAD Savannah Film Festival is also raising consciousness and combating industry gender parity issues by highlighting women-helmed programming in competition including the upcoming Nicole Kidman starring noir-thriller Destroyer, by director Karyn Kusama, Nancy by Christina Chloe, and Kindergarten Teacher from Maggie Gyllenhaal.
President Paula Wallace (who has reached a celebrity status among Savannah-ites) commented, “SCAD created the Wonder Woman Panel Series because more than 55% of all SCAD students are women — and that percentage is even higher in our entertainment industry degree programs, including performing arts (69%) and production design (84%). SCAD ensures that these ambitious imminent film professionals know they have a leadership role and voice in the entertainment industry.”
Heather Graham and Christina Chloe Speak on SCAD Savannah Film Festival's Wonder Women Directors Panel Photo: Getty Images Courtesy of SCAD
Refinery29’s very own Shatterbox director AM Lukas spoke on the Wonder Woman directors panel alongside Heather Graham ( Half Magic), Polly Draper ( Stella’s Last Weekend), Hannah Marks ( After Everything), Christina Chloe ( Nancy), and Karyn Kusama ( Destroyer).
One Cambodian Family For My Pleasure Please competed in SCAD Savannah Film Festival’s short film competition, snagging the Jury Award for best screenwriting. The narrative short stars Emily Mortimer as a Czechoslovakian refugee who yearns to adopt a family of Cambodian refugees and provide them with a better life in Fargo, ND.
Watch the trailer below and check out the season 2 in partnership with TNT here.
Travel and accommodations for the author were provided by SCAD for the purpose of writing this story.
In 2017, only 8% of top 100 films were directed by women. Refinery29 is dedicated to change that. Shatterbox is an award-winning short-film series dedicated to spotlighting the voices of female filmmakers, and providing emerging and established talent the support and opportunity to realise their vision and reach new audiences through storytelling. Born as a rallying cry to counteract staggering industry statistics, the series champions gender parity storytelling in Hollywood, both on and off the screen.
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As we not-so-patiently wait for former First Lady Michelle Obama's highly anticipated memoir Becoming, ABC's Robin Roberts gave us a preview this morning on Good Morning America. In the clip, Obama opened up about her miscarriage and fertility struggle.
“I felt like I failed because I didn't know how common miscarriages were because we don't talk about them,” Obama told Roberts. “We sit in our own pain, thinking that somehow we’re broken.”
The Obamas eventually turned to in vitro fertilisation, where the sperm and egg are combined outside of the body, to conceive their two daughters, Malia and Sasha. Obama said she thinks it's important to talk to young mothers about miscarriages, so they never have to suffer alone.
"I think it's the worst thing that we do to each other as women — not share the truth about our bodies and how they work and how they don't work," Obama said.
According to the American Pregnancy Association, about 10-25% of all clinically recognised pregnancies end in a miscarriage. There's also something called a chemical pregnancy, which is a term for when a pregnancy is lost very shortly after conception. Chemical pregnancies account for 50-75% of all miscarriages.
Celebrities such as Carrie Underwood, Jana Kramer, and Refinery29's global editor and co-founder Christene Barberich have bravely spoken about their own miscarriages and fertility struggles too, in order to let other women going through similar situations know that they're not alone. Obama's memoir will be released on November 13.
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After my first job at MTV working as a music programmer, I can't stop trying to matchmake people with music they might like. So, I wrote a book calledRecord Collecting for Girlsand started interviewing musicians. The Music Concierge is a column where I share music I'm listening to that you might enjoy, with a little context.
Kelsey Lu "Due West"
Everyone leaves home at some point, but not without reckoning with the feeling that they're leaving their childhood, and some part of themselves, behind. Kelsey Lu addresses the specific kind of melancholy and excitement that moment in life when you set off on a new adventure to somewhere unknown can invoke. And...if I were to tell you Skrillex contributed to the production, would you be surprised? It sounds like a few of those tropical-infused tricks Diplo likes so much may have rubbed off on him and (Scottish) producer Rodaidh McDonald.
The Regrettes "California Friends"
If you were wondering what the formula for making a video to get played on 120 Minutes circa 1991 was, the Regrettes have nailed it. While the lo-fi camcorder quality and old school square TV image ratios give it that crunchy vibe, the clothes should not be overlooked as the very thing that the Breeders or Sonic Youth would have worn. The song, though, is classic pop rock. We seem to be on a going west trend today, which is perfect for fall.
Wafia "I'm Good"
I am dead because Wafia has reached into my soul and ripped out my experiences with approximately all of my breakups for the last 10 years and turned them into a perfect song. While you're out there spinning "Thank U, Next," I will be listening to this one on repeat for another take on the breakup oeuvre. The groove on this song is truly second to none, and paired with her airy vocals, it makes for a next level conception on a classic genre of song.
The Marías & Triathalon "Drip"
If you're searching for some zen going into the weekend, this trippy track was made for your ears. I'm such a sucker for these trance-inspired beats, and I cannot stop obsessing over how the male and female voices layer over each other in this vocal arrangement. "Drip" is giving me hardcore crying on the dance floor vibes, and I love it.
Nana Adjoa "Simmer Down"
Now let's slow it all the way down and stand still while basking in Nana Adjoa's gorgeous song. The music will envelop you like a warm hug while Adjoa's lyrics make you feel like you are loved and in the safest of places. Her delivery, so unhurried and coarse, is an unexpected delight, while that piano line lilts up and down like you're being rocked towards a calm but happy ending.
Get everything I've recommended this year on Spotify, follow me on Twitter or Facebook, and leave a comment below telling me what you're listening to this week.
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“I began to notice that I would stare off into space and black out for seconds or minutes,” she said. "I would see flashes of things I was tormented by, experiences that were filed away in my brain with ‘I’ll deal with you later' for many years because my brain was protecting me, as science teaches us. These were also symptoms of disassociation and PTSD."
Gaga also stated that her mental health was so intertwined with her physical health that the symptoms she was experiencing "later morphed into physical chronic pain, fibromyalgia, panic attacks, acute trauma responses, and debilitating mental spirals that have included suicidal ideation and masochistic behaviour."
Gaga went on to say that, during this time, she didn't have anyone on her team that could support her from a mental health standpoint. "I wish there had been a system in place to protect and guide me, a system in place to empower me to say no to things I felt I had to do, a system in place to empower me to stay away from toxic work environments or working with people who were of seriously questionable character," she said, adding that the SAG-AFTRA Foundation could partner with her own Born This Way Foundation to establish mental health care programmes that would serve members of their union.
Such resources are so important, Gaga explained, because they would do so much to remove the stigma that still surrounds mental illness in general and, specifically, the decision to get help. “We are losing a generation of young people who do not believe that their voices are worth hearing, that their pain has no end,” she said, NME reports. "We are facing a crisis of epic proportions and the cause of that crisis is our inability or unwillingness to be open and honest about one thing – mental health, today."
Gaga has been a staunch advocate for people living with mental illnesses as well as those who have survived sexual violence for years. In directing her statement to leaders in the entertainment industry, those who have the power to establish networks that would help actors, artists, writers, and others manage their mental health, she made one thing clear — she's not going to stop pushing for serious, systematic changes that will ultimately alleviate mental illness sufferers of the burden of stigma.
If you or someone you know is struggling with mental illness, please visit the Mental Health UK website for further guidance.
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If Gossip Girl were set at a university in Edinburgh and took a turn towards the dark, seductive and lingeringly tense genre of psychological thrillers, you’d arrive at BBC Three’s Clique.
It’s a drama that follows the scandalous lives of Scotland’s elite students. The focus here isn’t uninhibited shopping trips and underage drinking, though. Instead, Clique is about the complicated inner workings of exclusive friendship groups at the mercy of the university's seedy underbelly. It's about the danger that follows when these smart, ambitious twentysomethings find themselves at the centre of a sinister controversy. Yes, it’s as deliciously dramatic as it sounds.
In a nutshell, that’s what happened in the first series. Holly and her childhood best friend went to university together and were drawn to a glamorous but deeply troubled group of young women who were in the middle of an international scandal that ended traumatically for each and every one of them. The second series, which starts this weekend, picks up in the aftermath of the previous academic year, with Holly this time quickly allured by a male clique, "a group of freewheeling renegades".
At the beginning of season two, we see this quartet of freewheeling bad boys infringe on a campus forum in which students are demanding answers from the university dean about safe spaces. At the push of a button the guys release a shower of snowflakes over the complaining undergrads and film the messy display for a video that's shortly uploaded to "Twitcher", a website that promises to "just tell the truth. Or try to." There's a scene where a right-wing author invades a meeting at the feminist society to denounce gender politics, question no-platforming and mock women's frustrations with the patriarchy. Sat at the back watching the whole thing unfold, of course, is our band of privileged renegades. The echoes of what's been going on in the real world ring loudly as our attention is directed towards the four attractive troublemakers.
"It’s always been around, that tribalism at uni," says Clique ’s writer, creator and executive producer Jess Brittain (who also wrote on Channel 4's Skins). "I think it’s become much more gender divided in recent times, which I guess is where this whole thing started from – the worry that causes and how troubling it is to see such a divide between the two sides. I don’t think that’s been about gender so strongly ever before, or not in my memory."
University tribalism is something many of us are familiar with. Although as a television drama, Clique pushes the boundaries with narrative and is able to present scenarios in terrifying extremes, at its core is the pressure and confusion of this formative stage of life. Much of that relies on the people you surround yourself with, which Brittain has long been conscious of in her writing – the less idyllic side to female friendship.
"It’s usually your first intense love affair," she explains. "As a woman that’s usually where your first intense relationship is and it's so fundamental at university because it's so hard, university is so hard, and female friendships stand in for your whole support group and you quite often learn or construct who you are depending on who you’re around and who they are. So if that goes wrong in any way or if that gets splintered or if there’s any betrayal, that can completely and utterly destabilise you as a young woman."
It's no spoiler to reveal that this happened to Holly last season as she navigated the murky world of high-stakes friendship among the intelligent and wealthy. This time around she's got to try and do the same thing with the few friends she has left, with the ominous presence of a similarly shady group of boys in the picture, too. Curious? You should be. Watch the trailer below for an intense taste of what's in store for Holly this season.
This week on Refinery29, we’re filling your screens and consciousness with inspiring women over 50. Why? Because living in a culture obsessed with youth is exhausting for everyone. Ageing is a privilege, not something to dread. Welcome to Life Begins At...
"You're going to regret that in 50 years' time." It's one of the most common warnings to anyone pondering whether to get a tattoo in the first few decades of their life. The assumption being that a design that looks "fresh" and "vibrant" on twenty- or thirtysomething flesh will look "faded" and "haggard" on the skin of an older person. But it's a lazy, ageist theory that only constrains how we present and express ourselves once we reach "a certain age". And given the traditionally masculine connotations of tattoos – stemming from their historical link to sailors, convicts and gang members – older women with ink face both ageist and sexist prejudice.
Tattoos are one of the most common forms of body modification nowadays, yet the stigma of being a woman over 50 with a tattoo still holds. More people than ever are deciding to have words and symbols permanently inked onto their skin, with a fifth of the population now claiming to have tattoos – a figure that rises to one in three among young adults, according to reports. They've become so common in the workplace that visible body art no longer hinders your chances of getting a job, recent research found. All this means that, thankfully, the shame and potential embarrassment around tattoos among younger people is gradually falling away. For the over-50s, though, not much seems to have changed.
Whether the motivation behind our inkings is personal and deeply significant, impulsive, or simply that you think a symbol looks pretty or cool, getting tattooed and making a permanent change to our bodies on our own terms should be celebrated, whatever our age. Happily, more and more women over 50 are embracing their body art and Refinery29 was lucky enough to hear five women's personal stories.
Blue, 54, owner of The Blue Tattoo
It was 1983 and Blue was just 19 when she bit the bullet and got her first tattoo: a black heart with a dagger. It was a "tribute to being an absolute goth," she explains, and inspired by her favourite song, "Black Heart" by new wave group Marc and the Mambas.
It was inked by Bob Roberts, a legend in the industry who has been tattooing professionally since 1973, at his world-famous Spotlight Tattoo studio on Melrose Avenue in LA. "I still love my first tattoo and love the way it’s aged. It’s been 36 years of getting tattooed and I am totally covered now," she says. So much so that she only has space for small gap fillers and blast-overs – bold tattoos on top of existing, faded tattoos that grab people's attention while leaving some of the old design visible.
"I have never regretted any of them," Blue attests, proudly. "This is who I am, so I don't ever look back and it’s not something I’ve stopped to think about." While some of her designs do have specific meanings and hold personal significance, mostly, they’re striking mediums of self-expression based on however she was feeling at the time. "They are all a beautiful piece of artwork by amazing tattoo artists."
Liz, 57
It’s often said that there’s no such thing as getting one tattoo – rather, you’re more likely getting your first of many. Ink aficionados often compare a first tattoo to a gateway drug that opens up a world of self-expression, and 57-year-old Liz has become hooked, fast. Since May, her first inking experience, she’s had 16 done and hopes for more in the future.
"I got my first tattoo on my twin girls' 18th birthday this year. They wanted us all to get one, so we did." She speaks fondly of her first tattoo: an amalgam of her children’s initials, "which just happened to spell T. W. I. N."
"I always wanted a tattoo, but hated the way I looked as I was overweight, so didn't want them while I was unhappy with my appearance," she explains. "I lost four stone and wanted to do something for myself. Getting my tattoos was just for me."
Everyone who knows Liz is shocked that she now has tattoos, and while her older friends either "don’t get it" or disapprove, her younger ones seem to like them. Her family have also been supportive but by this point, 16 tattoos in, the mood music at home is more like "enough already". Regardless, she’s open-minded and already has two more planned in 2019.
Marian, 64
For women who reach their 50s, a decade during which many begin to feel invisible and ignored by men and younger people because of their age, a tattoo is an ideal birthday present to themselves. Marian gifted her first tattoo to herself 14 years ago to commemorate this milestone. "I got my first tattoo to celebrate being 50. It was hard to choose a design but in the end I went with a dragon." The mythical monster wasn’t intended to symbolise anything in particular, she concedes. "I just thought it looked cool despite it being a very common choice."
She’d wanted a tattoo for many years but always felt constrained by her career in law (an inking would be "frowned on" if it was spotted in the office), and negative comments from her family about tattoos, who "think it’s horrible to deface your body". After her first foray into body art with her dragon, retirement was a catalyst for more. "I have one on each thigh which represent two of my big passions in life – open-water swimming and connecting with horses," Marian explains. Both were based on photographs and done by the London-based tattoo artist Martha Smith.
The swimmer in the lake on Marian’s left thigh represents her: "I built my confidence swimming alone, often at sunset." Discovering the hobby has given her a new lease of life and made her feel more at one with nature, and she wanted a permanent reminder of the physical and mental benefits. The design on her right thigh, meanwhile, symbolises her love of horse whispering. Her gentle, quiet interactions with the animals has brought her stress levels down over the years, particularly when she was working full time. "The tattoo represents a connection I had instantly with a beautiful horse called Bree. She often resisted human approaches so I felt privileged to have her accept me."
On her wrist, Marian has a tattoo of the word "Basta", meaning "Stop" or "Enough" in Italian. It was intended to deter her from drinking too much – or at all – by being visible every time she lifted a glass or reached for a bottle. "I know how much my drinking to excess has ruined family gatherings and relationships in the past and decided that it was time to tackle the problem this year." It also keeps her focused on her triathlon training, another pastime she took up in retirement, as she hopes to qualify for next year’s European Championships in swimming and cycling. "Our culture equates having fun with being drunk and it’s hard to go out and resist the pressure to drink, but so far this tattoo has worked for me."
The reaction to her tattoos among older people has been mostly positive – a combination of intrigued and a little shocked, but mostly non-judgmental – and younger people just think it’s cool. "Tattooing is now much more accepted as a form of body art and personal statement nowadays. I've been open-water swimming for three years and people of all ages and both sexes in that community have tattoos, so I feel pretty normal as I only have four." All being well, the next inking on Marian’s agenda will be celebrating her getting to the European Championships. "I also want Martha to add a sea serpent wrapped around the outside of the lake tattoo to signify the danger I mentally overcome every time I get in unfamiliar water," she adds.
Pamela, 50
Like Marian, specialist children’s nurse Pamela is a rarity in her profession because of her tattoos. Now approaching 51, she got her first tattoo in 1990 at the age of 21. "I went along with a friend to support them getting their first tattoo but decided at the last minute to go ahead and get one myself. It was of a rose on my shoulder." But looking back, Pamela realised it was "cheap and not of very good quality," so she opted for a huge back tattoo to cover it.
"I waited two years on a sought-after tattooist’s waiting list and spent around £2,000 to have a piece of art with me always." She also went on to get Che Guevara on the inside of her arm to, again, carry that sentiment with her wherever she goes. "It's my favourite tattoo because it encourages me to give my utmost to anything and everything I do."
Pamela's spur-of-the-moment decision to get inked almost three decades ago altered her life course, she explains. "I absolutely love my tattoos because they always spark conversation, good and bad. I like meeting new people and my tattoos give them a topic of conversation." Hardly any of her colleagues are tattooed, "so I stand apart from the crowd, which is always a good thing in my book."
Marie-Anne, 54
Like Liz, Marian and Pamela, whose forearm tattoos serve as a near-constant reminder of people and sentiments close to their hearts, Marie-Anne's also has a "special meaning". In 2012, at the age of 48, she delved into the world of tattoos for the first time, opting for an entwined Star of David and Christian cross, despite never having been religious herself. "It represents my heritage: my Jewish father and Catholic mother," she explains, adding that she has no regrets.
"I loved it then and I love it now – it’s my own design and unique to me. It's not religious in any way. The symbols represent the religions, certainly, but they are also beautiful symbols in their own right and their simplicity was what drew me to design the tattoo as I did, to represent my parents and our shared heritage."
She'd wanted a tattoo since she was 18, "but either didn’t have the courage or money to get one," so it wasn't until she began researching her family's history in 2008 and made some surprising discoveries that she started thinking about it more seriously. "I became more drawn to having a tattoo but wanted one that was personal to me and this design was one that I kept coming back to. I’m thinking of getting another one, but haven't yet got a proper idea in mind."
Marie-Anne believes the cultural codes around tattoos have shifted such that it's now more acceptable for women like her to express themselves via the medium of skin. "Before, it wasn't the done thing for women to have tattoos but that has changed over the years, as women have felt the freedom in being able to express themselves more." While she's never personally experienced any stigma as an older woman with a tattoo, she trusts some people will never update their views. "If you are of the mentality that what other people do is wrong if it’s different to you, then you might never change your mind and be open-minded about anything." And who would want to be among them?
Refinery29 would like to thank Blue, Liz, Marian, Pamela and Marie-Anne for their involvement, and the all-female-run Velvet Underground Tattoo studio in east London for its help behind the scenes.
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The Netflix original is described as a psychological thriller and stars The Handmaid’s Tale's Madeline Brewer as well as all your darkest nightmares. Per Netflix, the film centers on Alice (Brewer), an “ambitious cam girl” who learns that she has been replaced on her own channel. The really disturbing part? The person who has taken her slot… is an exact replica of Alice herself.
Who this random clone really is, what does she want, and how did she came to exist in the first place is a question that neither Netflix’s release nor the film’s particularly trippy trailer answers.
Produced by Blumhouse (aka the team behind horror hits like Get Out) and directed by Daniel Goldhaber, the trailer for Cam reveals the film to be a cross between Assassination Nation and Blumhouse’s own Unfriended. (There are second screens galore, as well as plenty of blood. No hands make their way to blenders, fortunately.)
The Hollywood Reporter described the movie as "Lewis Carroll meets David Lynch," so, you know — expect weird. The trailer teases such insanity: Even before Alice meets her internet doppelganger, stuff gets really strange, with her online clients demanding not just sexy videos, but faux-snuff content as well. Alice takes it all in stride, happily slicing her own neck (thanks to the help of horror movie makeup), not realizsng that there is a very real threat headed her way.
Whatever is going on in this movie — it’s a guaranteed insane ride. Your call if you can stomach it. Cam hits Netflix on 16th November.
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Back in the day, when we wanted lengthy claws, acrylics felt like our only option. We'd sit in our local nail salon for over an hour getting our fingers sculpted with the jelly-like powder and we never skipped a fill-in once new growth came in. But now, if we want long flashy nails, we've got more options. There are quick fixes (like press on nails) and newer innovations (like SNS dip powder), plus gel extensions.
The latter isn't a new technique, per se, but despite the popularity of gel polish, it's still pretty obscure. So what the hell are gel extensions and what's the difference between gels, gel extensions, and acrylics? We're breaking it all down for you. Ahead, we talked to celebrity manicurist Gina Edwards who told us everything there is to know about the gel technique before you book your next nail appointment.
What Are Gel Extensions?
Gel extensions and acrylic nails aren't identical, but they are similar. "Acrylic is a two-step process that involves liquid and powder which air dries. Gel extensions use hard gel or structure gel and are cured with a UV or LED light," Edwards explains. "Both techniques have a similar look and feel."
Hard gel, the more durable of the two, is also the most common type of gel used for extensions, but takes a little more work to remove. "Structure gel can be easily soaked off and is good for people with natural nails who want to improve durability, without the extreme hardness and heaviness of hard gel," says Edwards. "It creates a solid capping on the natural nail, but isn't as tough as the hard gel." Hard gel, on the other hand, is the toughest form of gel polish out there and creates a sturdier, longer-lasting exterior.
Like acrylics, gel extensions require an overlay to lengthen your nail. "Using a form under the nail helps to create the length and shape you are trying to achieve," Edwards says. "Most of the time, a form is applied underneath the natural nail. Once that adheres, hard or structure gel is applied all over the nail from the tip to the cuticle and then cured under a lamp," she explains. The rest of your appointment will flow like a regular gel mani: your colour is applied with standard soft gel polish and cured layer by layer. If you're getting nail art, your artist will decorate your tips, and then your nails are sealed with a gel top coat.
If you're looking to get a fresh set of extensions, prepare to spend at least one hour in the salon chair, Edwards says. "It's a process that shouldn't be rushed, so depending on the length and shape of the nail you are going for, you should dedicate 1-2 hours. If you're getting nail art, that takes up some time, too," she says.
When applied correctly, gel extensions should last between 2-4 weeks (or more depending on how much you hate the grown-out look). But to preserve the health and strength of your natural nail, the removal process is crucial. "You absolutely should not try to remove your own gel extensions at home," Edwards says. Just because gel polish is being used, doesn't mean your extensions can be soaked off like a regular UV-light manicure. "Hard gel is extremely durable and won't come off with foils and acetone. To remove them you need to completely break through the top seal which requires a professional nail drill," she says. "Almost 90% of the gel needs to be drilled off, then you remove the remaining product by soaking your nails in acetone and dusting it off with a nail file."
Edwards recommends giving your nails enough time to start growing out before deciding to have them completely removed. "You don't want to remove your gels too soon. It's a process that can weaken the nail so let them grow out or get a fill." The fill-in process is similar to that of acrylics. Your manicurist should buff and drill down where growth appears on the nail so that the surface is smooth. Then, more gel is applied and cured on the freshly-buffed tip.
Are They Safe?
Most nail enhancements raise the question of safety — and this technique is no different. Edwards explains that any enhancement made to the nail comes with risks, especially if a faulty application or improper removal is involved. "Whenever you put anything on your nail you risk harming its firmness," she says. Like any beauty enhancement — from lash extensions to bleaching your hair — finding a seasoned professional with great reviews is key. Then there's the importance of moderation: Take gel breaks to let your nails rest and grow and always follow your trusted nail professional's advice.
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Since yesterday, #EqualPayDay has been trending as people tweet to raise awareness of the gender pay gap – and share their frustration that it isn't closing faster.
Check out a selection of tweets below.
So I'm out of the office for the rest of the year.
Today is #EqualPayDay which has fallen on the same date for 3 years. The Govt has failed to tackle the structural barriers which allow the #GenderPayGap to exist. The next @UKLabour Govt will require all large employers to prove exactly how they will tackle their gender pay gaps. pic.twitter.com/BFfjg2Kkwg
Today is the last day in 2018 women get paid to work because of the gender pay gap. The Gender Pay Gap is on average 17.9% but for some women it’s even worse. The average pay gap for BAME is between 24% and 26%. #EqualPayDay
It’s #EqualPayDay - it’s 2018 and we haven’t bridged the gap. Sobering thought: we won’t close it until far in the 22nd century (yes, that’s after 2100!). pic.twitter.com/zHeNdCSk74
Today is #equalpayday and women in the UK are now collectively working for free for the rest of the year. Yes the gender pay gap is comprised of bigger social issues but the question today is why women are not getting equal pay for equal work - time for change @fawcettsocietypic.twitter.com/LbKP4qiGmY
Sam Smethers, chief executive of women's equality charity The Fawcett Society, marked Equal Pay Day 2018 by writing that a significant factor contributing to the gender pay gap is "pay discrimination, which is often hidden and facilitated by a culture of pay secrecy or at least, pay silence".
Smethers continued in a statement: "So let’s get one thing crystal clear. Women have the right to be paid equally if they are doing the same job or work of equal value. But of course, if you don’t know what your male colleagues are earning, how can you possibly challenge it? Your right to equal pay is as good as a chocolate teapot without this basic information.
"So today we are asking you to do one simple thing. Turn to your colleagues and tell them what you earn. Men, if there is one favour you could do for your female colleagues, this is it."
If enough people follow Smethers' advice, Monday could prove to be very interesting indeed.
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As with most major beauty trends, the 'nail art bubble' hit fast and hard, followed by years of armchair analysis about when the trend would be declared officially dead. The truth? That bubble didn’t really exist; The artform is here to stay, evidenced by the continued creativity of the top nail artists in the game.
With veterans like Madeline Poole turning the page with unexpected colour combinations, fresh talent like Cassandre Marie breathing new life into negative space manis, and innovators like Betina Goldstein and Park Eun Kyung bringing chains, pearls, and nail jewellery (custom created, btw) to digits, there’s no better time to add a little something — anything — to a plain-polish mani.
Get inspired with some of the most creative forces in the field, ahead.
What To Expect: Minimal designs that run the gamut from politically inspired to designer driven, with plenty of riffs on current fashion collections (particularly for Gucci Gang devotees). Kate Hudson has LA-based nail artist Hang Nguyen on speed dial, and it’s easy to see why.
What To Expect: Teyana Taylor’s Harlem-based salon specialises in extra-long acrylic designs. Of-the-moment sets include everything from minimal graphic looks to maximal mixed-media designs.
What To Expect: The sickest colour combinations on fingertips. Madeline Poole is an OG in the nail community who has served as Global Colour Ambassador for Sally Hansen since 2014. She also happens to be a master of hue who seems to have taken lessons directly from Albert Munsell’s colour theory and applied them to sick-ass manis.
What To Expect: Soft and feminine designs rule nail artist Cassandre Marie’s universe — and one scroll through her feed shows it’s a lovely place to be. The Seattle-based pro specialises in a clean aesthetic and geometric designs that feel both of-the-moment and timeless.
What To Expect: Miss Pop lives up to her name with brightly-coloured manicures that regularly grace the colour-drunk runways of Moschino. As of late, she’s taken her signature dose of fun past the nails, creating hand art that extends down the fingers.
What To Expect: Nail art painted on short nails can be tricky because too elaborate designs can crowd shorter nails. Celebrity manicurist Betina Goldstein makes out-of-the-box manis done on short nails look elegant, thanks to smart use of negative space and the introduction of pearls, chains, and manicure rings (which she creates herself and will soon sell under the name DoubleMoss Jewelry). No wonder celebs like Zoë Kravitz and Dakota Johnson are fans.
What To Expect: A taste of the runway spun from Gucci bags and Prada looks and delivered in the most attainable way. New York-based manicurist Alicia Torello employs expert colour blocking and strategic use of metallic accents to further seal the deal. When our single-shade manis start to feel meh, Torello’s feed serves as the perfect antidote.
What To Expect: Even the most perfect of polish jobs can feel half baked next to the 3-D creations by Park Eun Kyung, a South Korea-based nail artist who helped bring glass, wire, and LED manicures to the forefront. More recent creations use brightly-coloured sugar, pearls, and plenty of nail jewellery to make otherwise minimal manis pop.
What To Expect: If Missy Elliot can do no wrong (and let’s face it: stylistically, she can’t), then the same goes for her nail artist. The Atlanta-based talent not only creates legendary looks for Ms. Missy, but has done the same for the stars of show Claws. She's known for her multi-textural and multimedia designs.
What To Expect: Trippy holographic, watercolour, and glow-in-the-dark designs created by the pros at Ariana Grande’s go-to nail salon in downtown LA. They're something out of Alice in Wonderland (or the “God Is A Woman ” video) — and when it comes to the people who brought us tarot nails, we wouldn’t expect anything less.
What To Expect: Hand-painted designs that are intricate, but not fussy. You can tell that UK nail artist Sophie Harris-Greenslade studied illustration in college. The styles range from classic patterns (florals, plaids) to gem-covered creations, and we’ve been pining for our own The Illustrated Nail mani since MIA wore Harris-Greenslade’s creations back in 2011. Now, we don’t need a transatlantic ticket make that happen: the manicurist has just launched a faux nail range with Boots.
What To Expect: Jewel-toned squares stacked on transparent tips made to resemble the Saturday Night Fever dance floor. Full sets that don’t repeat a single pattern. Statement nails painted with perfect typography. New York-based nail artist Mei Kawajiri never settles for what’s been done, which is why you find her fresh designs on the fingers of a range of cool-kid celebs, from Justine Skye to Bella Hadid to Queer Eye’s Jonathan Van Ness.
What To Expect: Jewel-encrusted creations painted in rich shades. Nothing says wealth — as in “I have a staff that does stuff like open soda cans for me” wealth — like the creations coming from New York’s Jenny Bui. For more-is-more mani inspo, what better feed to stalk than that of the nail artist who turns out Cardi B.'s famous talons?
What To Expect: Nail art for everyone from gaming geeks to marathoners. Among our favourites frequently found on the Olive & June feed? Designs inspired by frequently used emojis, like lightning bolts, hearts, and teeny rainbows, which are cute enough to make us want to book a standing weekly appointment (or at least add the salon’s own nail art stickers to cart).
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Following the backlash, the brand has released a statement from Ed Razek, chief marketing officer of its parent company L Brands.
“My remark regarding the inclusion of transgender models in the Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show came across as insensitive. I apologise. To be clear, we absolutely would cast a transgender model in our show. We've had transgender models come to castings...And like many others, they didn't make it. It was never about gender. I admire and respect their journey to embrace who they really are.”
Ahead of the 2018 Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show, Razek and the executive vice president of public relations at VS, Monica Mitro, explained why neither trans models nor plus-sized models have ever appeared in the show in an interview with Vogue. "I don’t think we can be all things to all customers. It is a specialty business; it isn’t a department store,” Razek said.
He went on to defend the brand’s decision to exclude curvier models, saying “no one had any interest” in watching a show featuring them in the past and “still don’t.” Later, he specifically explained why transgender models are also a no-go for VS. "’Shouldn’t you have transsexuals in the show?’ No. No, I don’t think we should. ‘Well, why not?’ Because the show is a fantasy,” he said.
Razek’s comments, specifically the anti-trans ones, drew heavy criticism from many on social media.
The audacity of suggesting that trans women aren't fantasy-worthy. Such bullshit. They're far more magical than you could ever be.
Hey @VictoriasSecret you need plus size models, trans models, and plus size trans models. If you’re marketing to actual women and not the disgusting “fantasy” of a woman that men want to see then make your material relatable. Honestly this is basic shit. Shame on you
While transgender visibility on the catwalk is improving somewhat – 45 transgender models and four non-binary models walked major and semi-major runways this past season – comments like Razek’s keep any major progress from being made. So hopefully this incident will inspire Victoria's Secret to make a real change and adjust their scope on what being diverse truly means.
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My definition of wellness involves Pilates classes and cheese plates, not colonics and quartz stones, and I’m about as spiritual as a bath loofah. I'm not the world's biggest Gwyneth Paltrow fan, either — I've only seen Shakespeare in Love once. But last weekend, I pulled on my yoga pants and made the pilgrimage with 200 other women to the mecca of the self-care movement: the In Goop Health summit.
In case you’ve been in a meditative trance for the last two years, In Goop Health is the physical manifestation of Paltrow’s lifestyle empire. Held in Vancouver, this was the fourth iteration of the event and the first for Canada. Tickets were £300; they sold out quickly.
Vancouver's Stanley Park Pavilion played host to In Goop Health.Photo: Ernesto Distefano/Getty images for goop.
I had been sick for a full month leading up to the summit, a combination of too much work, not enough sleep, an ill toddler, and a sinus infection from hell. When the opportunity to spend a weekend of Gwyneth-sanctioned mind-expansion, skin-beautification, and smoothies came my way (all expenses paid for by Goop), I said, “Sign me up, and pass the turmeric water!”
The first thing you’ll want to know: Gwyneth was not there. Instead, the day was presided over by GP’s right-hand woman and chief content officer, Elise Loehnen, who, dressed in head-to-toe red, was easy to spot in a sea of Lululemons. Loehnen is sharp with a wicked sense of humour, and I got the sense that her star-power is almost as bright as Gwyneth's in Goop world.
Facialist Anastasia Achilleos gave a "Glowy Skin Masterclass."Photo: Ernesto Distefano/Getty images for goop.
Held in the ridiculously gorgeous Stanley Park Pavilion, the summit was part speaker series (guests included volleyball icon Gabrielle Reece and Dr. Alejandro Junger, endorser of coffee enemas and detox cleanses) and part spa day (there were yoga sessions, facial tutorials, and “breath work”). The breath work — so not my jam — involved panting to the beat of an instrumental number with our arms uplifted for two minutes. It was supposed to help us "show up," but I found it embarrassing and had to fight back giggles. The facial lesson — definitely my jam — involved a very bossy, very sarcastic British facialist named Anastasia Achilleos demonstrating a vigorous massage technique to decrease puffiness and increase glowiness — which it did.
There were non-toxic beauty supplements (drinks that looked and tasted like orange Gatorade), and you could spike your coffee with collagen powder. In her opening remarks, Loehnen braced us for vitamin B12 shots: “Prepare to take down your pants and get a shot right in the ass.” And after a lunch of wild salmon and roasted spaghetti squash, I pulled down my waistband, exposed my hip, and did just that. There were two types of B12, one to pep you up and another to calm you down — I went for pep.
Elise Loehnan, Goop's chief content officer, gives her opening remarks. Photo: Ernesto Distefano/Getty images for goop.
I must have looked as uncertain as I felt, because as the syringe was inserted into my side, the woman waiting behind me in line, locked eyes with me, mouthed the word “breathe,” raised her hands in prayer, and inhaled deeply, encouraging me to do the same. “I was trying to absorb your pain,” she told me afterward. (It didn’t work: My hip was sore for 24 hours.)
B12 shots came in two formulas: one for energy and one for calm.Photo: Ernesto Distefano/Getty images for goop.
It wasn’t the first time I’d seen her. Early that day, we both sat in on a group medium reading, in which psychic Susan Grau connected people to deceased loved ones. My B12 friend had been connected with her grandmother, who was concerned both about the family drifting apart and about her granddaughter needing to take her car to the mechanic. One attendee had been connected to her mother, who died of a drug overdose; another to an absentee father. There were a lot of tears. The readings were bizarrely accurate — my B12 friend had moved away from her family and was indeed experiencing car troubles. I couldn't figure out just how we were being hoodwinked, but the grief the women felt was real. After the session, we took a 20-minute break to enjoy collagen-coconut smoothies before our facial tutorial. The woman from the B12 line wept in the corner.
I couldn’t imagine why anyone would want to mix grief with Lean Green Colada smoothies and skincare. So when I saw her again at the end of the day, I asked what it was like to experience that kind of pain and then go have a facial. “It was amazing,” she said. The reading made her feel raw and open, and ready to fully experience the day.
A group session with a psychic medium got very emotional.Photo: Ernesto Distefano/Getty images for goop.
The extent to which Goop is really about helping women was something I thought about again when I was at home in Toronto and googled Goop to review coverage of the event. The first thing that popped up was a story about the company being reported for allegedly breaching 113 advertising laws in the UK due to misleading statements about its products, including pre-natal vitamins. It was unsettling and made me wonder about the efficacy of the contents of my Goop goodie bag , which contained one month’s worth of its (brilliantly named) "Why Am I So Effing Tired?" vitamins. As far as I can tell, my Goop swag is all safe to use.
But just last month, Goop was ordered to pay $145,000 (£115,000) for unsubstantiated claims about its vaginal eggs — claims disproven by Canadian OB/GYN and unofficial chief Goop critic Dr. Jen Gunter. In fact, wrote Gunter, using the eggs could actually harm your vag. I read that the eggs were available at the Vancouver summit, though I didn’t see them. I did spy Goop’s “Medicine Bag,” a £76 satchel containing nine healing crystals — one of the items cited by the UK report.
I also read that there was a man outside the summit selling “hot-dog water” as a statement on critical thinking, a clever way of pointing out that Goopies will buy into pretty much anything.
According to Loehnen, that’s not true. The thesis behind that kind of criticism, she says, is that women are lemmings. “The reality is that every woman I know is like, ‘Listen, guys: I’m perfectly capable of reading something, parsing it, and deciding if it’s relevant to me. I know how to make decisions that are right for my body.’” Men, says Loehnen, aren’t treated the same way. “You’ll notice a lot of the things we’re criticised for have to do with reproductive organs or sexuality, and there’s always this pretence of protection,” she says.
Yoga pants were the default dress code.Photo: Ernesto Distefano/Getty images for goop.
I do agree that there's a significant a whiff of sexism in the Goop shit storm. You don’t see men berated for their own protein powders and erectile elixirs. And nobody belittles guys for dropping £350 on Leafs tickets. It’s worth underlining that the hot-dog water dude is, in fact, a dude.
On the other hand, the wellness industry plays on women’s insecurities with our looks and exacerbates the need for self-improvement in a way that’s inherently sexist. And don’t women (and all consumers) deserve to be protected from misleading product claims? It’s up to every woman to decide whether medium readings, psychic vampire repellent, or any of Goop’s more recreational products are things she wants to experiment with, but endorsing supplements for pregnant women that go against international health guidelines is straight-up bullshit.
So why do we Goop? I think it’s about connection — maybe connecting to a dead grandmother, maybe connecting to other women — but mostly I think it’s about connecting to ourselves. I found the summit intoxicatingly selfish — a full day of thinking about myself, and only myself. I spent 40 freaking minutes looking at myself in a mirror, carefully applying melting cleansers, exfoliating masques, and enriching oils into my face and neck.
Since I've been home, I have kept up with a 10-minute version of this routine, massaging my face with Goop melting cleanser before bed. Most of the time, women end up as the last item on their own to-do list — carving out time for rituals (celebrity-endorsed or otherwise) give us permission be a just little bit selfish.
For the record, I think the cleanser is working — even after a couple terrible nights' sleep, my skin is glowy. "Don't I look so much better than I did a week ago?" I asked my husband last night. "Uh..." he offered. Regardless — I feel like I look better. I've also started taking the "Why Am I So Effing Tired?" vitamins. Maybe next week we’ll find out that they are the latest Goop product to come under investigation. Until then, I'm exhausted and every little bit helps!
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At 16, she was discovered in Primark. Two years later she became the first black model to walk the Prada runway in over a decade. Jourdan Dunn is a supermodel in every sense of the word. She's walked for countless heritage houses, including Louis Vuitton, Valentino and Burberry. She's won the BFC's Model of the Year twice and was the first black model to grace the cover of British Vogue since Naomi Campbell 10 years before her. We caught up with Dunn to chat fashion month, not-so-big nights out, and cooking Caribbean food.
Do you have a favourite piece from the Calzedonia collection and how would you style it?
I'm so used to bare legs. Being a Londoner, I'm not scared of the cold, but now that I'm fronting the campaign, I'm excited to experiment with tights. I like statement fishnets, and the animal print ones are amazing – I'll rock them with a leather mini skirt and a loose T-shirt or black dress.
How was your SS19 fashion month back in September?
Pretty chilled actually. I spent time in London getting ready to move into my new house and then I did the Burberry show, which was amazing. I was super excited for that. Then I went to Paris for Off-White – another great show! It's not like how it used to be for me when I would do 70 shows a season. Now I can pick and choose and just actually enjoy it.
Are you an all-out dresser or do you go more minimalist when you're out on the town?
It depends. Sometimes I like to keep it simple and have one statement look. It depends on where I'm going. Sometimes I just want to be extra and over the top and do a full-on look. It really depends on my mood.
What's your idea of a big night out?
I used to love going out when I was younger but now a big night for me is when my son is sleeping in bed and I can have a tea or glass of wine and just vibe in my living room and put on some music and chill. That's what I'd rather be doing than going out.
I feel like everyone secretly wants that. So you might not be on the big nights out anymore but is there a tune that always gets you on the dance floor?
Anything that's Afrobeats or bashment. If I hear an Afrobeat then I'm going to be dancing, on the dance floor, at the bar, in the toilets, anywhere – I'll be moving.
Back in 2008, you were the first black model to walk for Prada in over a decade. Diversity is a central conversation in fashion at the moment. Do you think we're making progress?
When I did Burberry and Off-White – it was just two shows but it was nice to see a selection of different models, black models. It wasn't just that one token – that hot black model of the season. I'm seeing a whole load of girls being represented and getting work. It's amazing to see but the fact that we still have these conversations shows there is more to be done. It's still not the norm because we're still having to talk about it.
Photo: COurtesy of Calzedonia
What's your advice to aspiring models?
Get used to rejection. Rejection is a big part of a model's career and the first time you get rejected you feel hopeless and you just want to give up. But if it's something you really want, then keep on going for it. I do believe when one door closes, another opens. I still, today, get rejected for jobs and I legit don't take it personally anymore. It's just part of the job.
How do you unwind after all the madness of fashion month?
I take time to read and cook and just do normal stuff to get myself back into reality. I find comfort in cooking a meal for myself, my son or reading a book.
What's your favourite thing to cook?
Anything Asian, especially south Asian. And also Caribbean food because that's what I grew up on.
You grew up in the '90s – what are you nostalgic for from that decade?
The TV shows and the channels. Like Nickelodeon, Trouble, all of that. I just remember on a Saturday, when I used to stay at my auntie's house with all my cousins. We would all sleep downstairs and watch Sister Sister, Kenan & Kel – all of those great '90s sitcoms. That, for me, was one of the best parts.
Jourdan Dunn is the face of Calzedonia's AW18 hosiery campaign. The collection launches in-store and online from 9th November, with prices starting at £11.
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This week will feel like fighting a hydra: Once you deal with one problem, another will rear its ugly head.
We start the week with a waxing moon in Capricorn, imbuing us all with a can-do attitude. But make sure that you aren't being too harsh with others when offering criticism. The moon then shifts into Aquarius on Tuesday, which will make us eager to share our ideas with each other. You might not feel in the mood to focus on boring tasks while the moon is in this inventive, humanitarian sign. On Thursday night, the moon will transition into Pisces, inspiring us to release our emotions.
On Saturday, Venus (finally!) ends her retrograde. If you’ve been holding off on trying a new beauty ritual or decorating your home, you’ll be good to go after Saturday! Once direct, the planet of beauty and charm will help us fine-tune the little details that we wouldn’t usually think about. On the very same Saturday, Mercury begins his third retrograde of the year. Just remember to breathe, stargazers.
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Aries March 21 to April 19
Mercury’s retrograde isn’t something to dread, dear Aries. Your relationship with Mercury is centred around your work and health — and when it retrogrades, it asks that you reevaluate these areas of your life. Luckily, as one of the most action-oriented signs of the Zodiac, this is a challenge you won't back down from. Work toward self-editing your daily routine, and you’ll be free and clear when the retrograde ends in December.
Venus, your personal planet of love and money, ends her retrograde on Saturday as well, bringing some balance (and serious mojo) back into your life. Reflect on what you’ve learned from her retrograde cycle in your relationships and finances this week. There's always a lesson to be learned from a retrograde.
Illustrated by Abbie Winters.
Taurus April 20 to May 20
You might feel as though you’re being pulled in two different directions this week, Taurus. Venus, your ruling planet, is ending her retrograde on Saturday. She’ll get you back into your groove and she may even help you get closer to your coworkers.
Also on Saturday, Mercury enters his third retrograde of the year. This dynamic, energetic planet rules your financial domain, which is part of the reason why you have a healthy relationship with money: When put to the test, you know how to work around a shoestring budget. For the next three weeks, this retrograde will highlight any issues you need to fix so that you can move forward with a little more cash lining your pockets.
Illustrated by Abbie Winters.
Gemini May 21 to June 20
It’s time for your third reset of the year, Gemini. Mercury, your ruling planet, will begin his retrograde on Saturday, pushing you to reevaluate your finances as well as how you communicate with others. Changes may be needed in these areas, Gem.
The messenger planet entered Scorpio last week, and when any planet passes through Scorpio, we are confronted with the possibility of drastic transformation. Once Mercury enters his retrograde, you will need to be more careful with how you come across. Make sure when you send emails or texts that your tone is understood correctly. So much can be missed when we aren’t speaking face-to-face.
On Saturday, action planet Mars moves into your 10th house of career, lighting a fire under you at work. Choose your words wisely if you want to push forward into a promotion or new career path.
Illustrated by Abbie Winters.
Cancer June 21 to July 22
Are you ready to commit to your wellbeing, Cancer? Last week, Jupiter, the planet of luck, moved into your sixth house of health and wellness. He’s opening the door for you to establish the daily routine you need to seek success in other parts of your life — consider adding an hour or two to your sleep schedule or picking up a meditation practice.
On Saturday, Mercury, your personal planet of spirituality, will go retrograde. While you’re taking care of your physical body, make sure to connect to your inner self to gain clarity, too. Get some quiet time this weekend while you collect your thoughts. Saturday also marks the end of Venus’s retrograde. You’ll be feeling more centred and comfortable once the ruler of your home and family zones returns to her direct course.
Illustrated by Abbie Winters.
Leo July 23 to August 22
Do you feel just a little bit brighter, Leo? Jupiter, the planet of luck, made his way into your fifth house of pleasure last week, opening you up to enjoy the simpler things in life.
On Saturday, Venus, your personal planet of career, goes direct. If you’ve been feeling stressed out at work, you’ll be able to rediscover your sense of direction once Venus begins to move forward again. Your finances will need a deep review when Mercury, your money planet, enters his third retrograde of the year on Saturday. Spend time this weekend looking over your spending habits. Work to create a healthier relationship with your hard-earned cash, Leo.
Illustrated by Abbie Winters.
Virgo August 23 to September 22
Feel like you’re running out of steam, Virgo? Mercury, your planetary ruler of career, is entering his third retrograde of the year on Saturday. It’s time for you to slow yourself down and rest your mind. Mercury is retrograding just in time to remind you that efficiency sometimes requires self-editing. Are there tasks that you have at work that could be delegated? Communicate with your coworkers this week to see how you can make each other’s lives more manageable as a team. If you need to calm your mind, retreat to your homestead.
Jupiter entered your fourth house of home and family last week, creating a calmer, more bountiful environment there. While work is slowing down, your finances are finding their stride again as Venus goes direct on Saturday. This is an excellent week to review what you need. Once the retrograde is over, ask for what you want. If you don’t ask for it, how will you know if it’s possible?
Illustrated by Abbie Winters.
Libra September 23 to October 22
Single or attached, relationship changes are in store, dear Libra. Last week, Uranus, the planet of innovation and revolution, moved into your seventh house of relationships. It’s up to you to decide where you want to send your emotional energy. If it needs to be redirected from where it's currently going, so be it.
Jupiter, the planet of luck, was also on the move last week: He entered your third house of communication this past Thursday. He will reveal the exact words you need to express yourself to your partners or potential ones.
On Saturday, your ruling planet, Venus, finally goes direct! She returns to her regular course in time to offer you the image overhaul that you’ve been waiting for. Get ready to put your best foot forward!
Illustrated by Abbie Winters.
Scorpio October 23 to November 21
This Saturday, Venus, your personal planet of love, goes direct! If you’re in a relationship, you’ll find that opening up to your partner will come much more naturally. Spend time at home with them and sort out changes that you want to make together. Create a cosy space to celebrate your love!
If you’re single, you’ll be giving off magnetic vibrations to your potential love interests. Venus will help you find someone to truly connect with as she moves through your 12th house of spirituality. Physical attraction is great, but finding a meaningful connection is something you should strive for, Scorp.
Jupiter, the planet of luck, entered your financial house last week, so keep your eyes peeled for ways to increase your earning power. If anyone can strategise the best way to work smarter, it’s you.
Illustrated by Abbie Winters.
Sagittarius November 22 to December 21
Are you starting to feel more like yourself again, Sagittarius? Last week, Jupiter, your planetary ruler, made his way into your first house. It’s time to embrace your personal power! Jupiter is helping to gear you up for Saturday, when Venus goes direct. She rules your zones of work and health. Reflect on the lessons that you’ve learned about how you get things done to make the most of her direct period. What can you do to be more effective? Do you need to schedule out your day before attacking it? Find out the best solution that works for you, then stick to it.
On Saturday, Mercury, your personal planet of love, goes retrograde. If you’re in a relationship, ask yourself to slow down and listen to your partner’s needs. If you’re single, relax. Time alone with yourself is integral to finding out what you want in the long term.
Illustrated by Abbie Winters.
Capricorn December 22 to January 19
Sea goat, your perseverance is unmatched — you really can do just about anything. On Saturday, Venus goes direct and is ready to help you get back to where you want to be in your job. Her energy will be amplified by her placement in your 10th house, which rules your career path. Take time to think about how your drive to succeed affects your health this week, since Mercury will start a retrograde on the same day that Venus ends hers.
The messenger planet rules your zones of health and work — and yes, in astrology your work is slightly different from your career. Your career is dependent upon how good your work is, while your job is dependent on how energetic and healthy you are in a physical sense. While Mercury retrogrades, you may feel pressured by external forces to rein in your output. Make a daily practice of finding your centre, and checking in with yourself if you feel you've given too much.
Illustrated by Abbie Winters.
Aquarius January 20 to February 18
How does it feel to be the centre of attention, Aquarius? Last week, the lucky planet Jupiter moved into your 11th house of friends, amplifying your popularity. This Saturday, Venus, your personal planet of home and family, goes direct. Why not combine these two advantageous energies and host a Christmas party? Having the spotlight on you can feel overwhelming, but being surrounded by your friends will be more invigorating than anything else.
Communication planet Mercury will go retrograde on the same day that Venus moves direct. Be sure that you’re listening to the ideas that others are trying to express, rather than their words alone.
Illustrated by Abbie Winters.
Pisces February 19 to March 20
After spending last summer grinding hard, you’re finally starting to see some progress at work, Pisces! Jupiter, the planet of luck, busted open the conference room doors and sat down at the head of the table in your 10th house of career last week. Mercury is right there beside him, but be careful with what you say around the higher-ups — the communication planet will start a retrograde on Saturday.
The messenger planet rules so much for you: home, family and love. Turn off your phone, computer, and any other work-related gadget this weekend to reconnect with the most important people in your life. If you need to make changes, think long and hard before voicing your concerns to partners or relatives. You’ve got a gentle soul, so let it do the talking.
Illustrated by Abbie Winters.
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But now, fancy supermarket chain Waitrose has predicted five major food and drink trends to look out for in 2019. Warning: some of them might make you hungry.
1. Personalised health
This one is no shocker: we're going to become even more conscious of what we put in our mouths as nutritional information gets easier to access. "Whether through our smartphones, laptops or Alexa-style devices, we’ll be able to view personalised dietary tips and bespoke shopping lists," Waitrose predicts.
2. Ice cream
Obviously ice cream never really goes out of fashion, but Waitrose says that "trendy new parlours are popping up in the UK and pushing [it] to the next level of sensory experience". The supermarket cites Pan - N - Ice, the chain famed for its "ice cream tacos" which has outlets in London, Birmingham, Manchester and Bluewater, as one of the brands taking ice cream to the next level. (Of course, we fully expect delicous vegan ice cream to continue growing in popularity, too).
Vibrant and spicy dishes such as jollof rice and chicken yassa are predicted to become supper party staples, partly because they can be cooked in one pot, minimising the need for tedious midweek washing-up. It sounds good to us, tbh.
Earlier this year, the slightly bitter-tasting Aperol Spritz was dubbed the drink of summer 2018. Now Waitrose reckons the trend for bitter flavours will spill over into food. Expect to see even more dark chocolate and kale on menus and in the shops, plus more restaurants like London's Temper where meat and vegetables are cooked over a naked flame, giving a distinctive charred taste.
As more millennials decide to go alcohol-free, Waitrose predicts that cocktails will become more inventive and tempting. Key ingredients to look out for include beetroot, pickled onion, vegetable peel and fruit rind. Meanwhile, Kombucha cocktails are expected to become a bit of a thing as the fermented tea drink is used more frequently as a mixer.
Everyone knows the Spice Girls are all about "girl power!" And while the group's feminist credentials have been debated fiercely since Baby, Ginger, Posh, Scary and Sporty first conquered the charts with "Wannabe" 22 years ago, it's hard to deny the girlband still places female solidarity at the heart of its brand.
This weekend the group – minus Victoria Beckham, of course – has expanded its summer 2019 reunion tour from six UK stadium dates to 11 to meet feverish demands for tickets.
But hearteningly, the Spice Girls have also announced that they've teamed up with Comic Relief to create a T-shirt which will raise money for women's charities.
The group said in a statement: "Equality and the movement of people power has always been at the heart of the band. It is about equality for all, ’every boy and every girl’. We recently found out that charities focused on issues faced by women don’t get the funding that they desperately need, so launching a campaign to raise funds for these issues is incredibly important to us and an area we want to support.”
Liz Warner, Comic Relief's chief executive, added that the T-shirt is "going to help us support even more organisations fighting for the rights of women and girls here in the UK".
The release of the charity T-shirt coincides with Equal Pay Day 2018, the date women in the UK effectively begin working for free until the end of the year because of the gender pay gap.
The gender pay gap is one of several issues Comic Relief's Gender Justice campaign is aiming to tackle. Others include domestic violence, FGM, the lack of women in leadership roles, and the advancement of women in sport. You can find out more on the Comic Relief website.
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But even with those wins, some key questions about the future of women in American politics remain (and not just when it comes to a number of big races that are too close to call or potentially heading to a runoff.). One of the biggest unknowns: will the oft-described “pink wave” of women running for and winning elected office in 2018 continue beyond this election cycle?
Early signs indicate the answer is: hell yes.
She Should Run, a nonpartisan group dedicated to supporting more women in office, saw a 900% increase in inquiries from potential candidates week over week after the midterms. Erin Loos Cutraro, the group’s founder and CEO, said that she and her colleagues were “holding our breath” ahead of the midterms, knowing that “whenever there is a big gain and a series of gains, there is potential for people to feel like we can let off the gas.” But she has been thrilled to see the opposite is true: women seem more revved up than ever about running in years to come.
She Should Run saw a 900% increase in inquiries from potential women candidates week over week after the midterms.
“Going into Tuesday, we weren’t sure what to expect. We weren’t sure if we would see this pause or fatigue after so many people had worked so hard to get women they cared about elected,” she said. “[But] what we’re seeing is that women are continuing to show up in ways they hadn’t prior to 2016. And the message from that is women aren't going anywhere.”
It’s not just She Should Run fielding fresh inquiries. Emily’s List, the pro-choice Democratic PAC that was instrumental in both getting more women elected and flipping the US House of Representatives this year, is seeing a post-vote bump, too. While the numbers don’t yet match the resounding 42,000 could-be female candidates the group heard from in the 2018 cycle (a ginormous increase from the 920 who reached out ahead of 2016), scores of women are already calling about their future campaign aspirations.
"As we expected, we've seen an explosion of enthusiasm from women since Tuesday,” Emily’s List president Stephanie Schriock told Refinery29 in a statement. “Fifty-six women on Wednesday alone reached out to us about running for office — they're inspired by the historic number of victorious women who will be serving come January. This was never about one year; we're in this for the long run."
The long run is, of course, what’s really going to make a difference when it comes to closing the gender gap in politics. Even with this year’s record-setting gains, women will hold just 23% of the 435 seats in the House of Representatives come January and the number of women in the GOP caucus will likely drop by double digits. (Put another way, more than 75% of the people in Congress will still be men!) And despite some historic firsts, the election won’t increase from the previous highs for women serving in the Senate and governor’s mansions. Those figures, especially when it comes to setbacks and stagnation for female candidates on the right, highlight the challenges ahead.
What we’re seeing is that women are continuing to show up in ways they hadn’t prior to 2016. And the message from that is women aren't going anywhere.
"We've seen important breakthroughs, particularly in the US House,” Debbie Walsh, director of the Center for American Women in Politics, said in a statement. “But deepening disparities between the parties in women's representation will continue to hobble us on the path to parity. We need women elected on both sides of the aisle."
That’s a message that hits close to home to Cutraro, whose organisation has set a goal of getting 250,000 women to run for office by 2030. She knows that in order to hit that number, women of all backgrounds and political affiliations need to step up. Cutraro is cautiously optimistic on that front. She Should Run has received inquiries from women from both sides of the aisle, as well as independents, since Election Day and senses that the “call for action for Republican women is stronger than it’s ever been.” But she acknowledges that paving the way for true gender parity is going to take concerted effort and time.
“I think we will see a historic number of women come out of this election cycle and put their names in the hat. It’s not going to come without work and it’s not [going to happen] without institutional players stepping up and doing something too. Now is the moment to show things have to be different and they can be different,” she said. “I’m very hopeful we will see a change, but we have a long way to go to really flood the system with more and more women.”
One thing Cutraro is sure about? That the masses of women motivated by the midterms won’t give up until they’ve hit their goals.
“They’re going to push forward. They are going to continue to be the story,” she said. “It’s not the year or the years of the women. Every year is going to be that year until we close the gap of women serving in elected office.”
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Bigger, more expensive home buys (like furniture) might be essentials, but they aren't what pull a space together; it's the little things that truly make a space special. Achieving an atmosphere that oozes effortless luxury can be as easy as expertly placing a few unique and affordable items around your pad – and you don't have to go to the charity shop in order to find them.
From velvet to funky ceramic planters, bohemian baskets, stylish lampshades, and more, we've rounded up 29 home goods (all for under £29) that will add touches of personality to any space. Click through for polished and whimsical decor finds that you may as well have discovered in the depths of a flea market.
At Refinery29, we’re here to help you navigate this overwhelming world of stuff. All of our market picks are independently selected and curated by the editorial team. If you buy something we link to on our site, Refinery29 may earn commission.
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Urban Outfitters Get Naked Bath Mat, $25, available at Urban Outfitters
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From beauty brands to dermatologists, it feels like more or less everyone is drumming into us the importance of incorporating 'wonder ingredient' vitamin C into our skincare routines. Known for its ability to brighten skin, protect against the environment and subsequently fight things like pigmentation and dullness, there are countless serums, moisturisers and cleansers formulated with the vitamin. But according to dermatologist Emma Wedgeworth, there is a huge lack of understanding around vitamin C and what it does. And if you're using the ingredient exclusively as part of an evening routine, you won't get the full benefits.
"I think a lot of people don’t really know what vitamin C is for," Dr Wedgeworth told R29. "It provides protection against things like city pollution and it's also really good at mopping up the stuff your sunscreen can’t, like certain types of radiation that comes from the sun, such as infrared. I tend to always use vitamin C in the morning because as well as having that freshening and brightening effect, it’s also an antioxidant."
Put simply, it makes more sense to use vitamin C in the daytime, when your skin is more likely to be exposed to things such as infrared and pollution which can lead to skin damage. Because of its antioxidant ability to shield skin from said environmental aggressors, Dr Wedgeworth suggests it might not be the best move to use it solely as part of an evening routine. Why? Because your face is essentially just hitting your pillow. London-based consultant dermatologist Dr Justine Kluk expanded: "Further benefits of vitamin C include reduction in collagen breakdown leading to tighter, firmer skin and a brighter, more even skin tone. As such, it makes good sense to take advantage of these benefits in the morning in order to boost the defence barrier provided by our sunscreens." R29 recommends Clinique's Fresh Pressed Daily Booster With Pure Vitamin C 10%, £25, or Kiehls' Powerful Strength Line-Reducing Concentrate, £49.50.
And as Dr Wedgeworth mentioned, vitamin C is even more effective when combined with sunscreen. "I like a combination of physical and mineral sunscreen," she said. "Tinted sunscreens are also good for pigmentation because a lot of them have iron oxide in, which blocks visible light. Together, vitamin C and sunscreen are my top pigmentation busters." Dr Wedgeworth recommends Clinique's Super City Block SPF 40, £19, while R29 likes Heliocare's 360 Gel Oil-Free SPF 50 Color, £32.99 – it lends a slight tint, is dry to the touch and is non-comedogenic, which means it's less likely to clog your pores.
But back to the vitamin C. Seeing as repair processes tend to take place at night, Dr Kluk mentions that you can use a vitamin C serum as part of your evening skincare routine if you really want to – it won't cause any harm at all. Just be sure to alternate between vitamin C and retinol if you're using both as part of an evening routine.
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