Rachel Rowan Olive is 26 years old and would like to have children one day, but she’s worried her mental health won’t make that possible. "If I knew I would have access to timely support for as long as I needed it, I wouldn’t think twice about conceiving once I met the right person to start a family with. But in the age of austerity, I can’t really see that happening," she says.

The London-based illustrator has received several mental health diagnoses over the years, and is currently under the care of a team of professionals. "I know women with problems like mine who are fantastic mums, but people need support to manage, and that’s hard to come by these days."

According to a recent study, one in four women in the UK experience a mental health problem during pregnancy, and while it’s admirable that new perinatal services have been developed, availability is still patchy and resources remain inadequate. But Rachel worries about discrimination from children’s social services, too: "You’re automatically seen as a risk to your kids if you’ve got a mental health history." And being gay, she fears she would face an extra layer of stigma.

Women with a diagnosis of mental illness – like severe depression, anxiety, bipolar or schizophrenia – worry more about being competent parents, confirms Dr. Gertrude Seneviratne, chair of the perinatal faculty at the Royal College of Psychiatrists: "[In the UK,] they worry hugely about [their] children being taken away by the social care," she says. And although that doesn’t happen in the majority of cases, she explains, some women conceal symptoms, avoid asking for help and possibly relapse, for fear of losing their children if they were to seek treatment.

"There are very dangerous misconceptions that you can’t be a parent because of your mental health problem," adds Dr. Seneviratne, although she says she has had patients who decided not to have children. In her experience: "It’s usually been people [that] maybe have a chronic relapsing illness, where throughout their lives they’ve had several episodes, [where] they relapse if the stress has become really high, and they have questions on whether they should embark on the journey of becoming a parent." From a medical point of view, she admits, severe, chronic mental health problems – with significant and recurrent psychotic episodes, for example, or self-harming or suicidal behaviours – could make it quite hard to deal with being a parent.

Fiona Thomas was about 27 when she realised having children might impact her depression and anxiety. "Something that huge would definitely trigger a relapse for me, and I think, 'I find it hard to manage a relapse on my own, so [imagine if] I have a child to look after and manage a really raw period in my mental health' – that thought was just really scary," she says.

Now 31, Fiona has never particularly wanted to become a mother and her diagnosis just reinforced this decision; she is married to a partner that supports her choice: "[H]is number one concern is that my mental health is taken care of, and he also thinks that it wouldn’t be impossible, but certainly [very] stressful."

There may also be a concern about inheritability. It isn't clear if, or how, mental illness runs in families, but it's understandable that this could be an issue some women may worry about. As Fiona explains: "There’s a history of mental health issues in my family. [The] thought that maybe, in 20 years, my child would display the same symptoms as me, I would feel responsible for passing that down."

Despite having written about her diagnosis putting her off having children, she admits she’s still uncomfortable talking about it: "Even with friends and acquaintances, I wouldn’t necessarily feel like bringing up [mental health] as a reason not to have kids. And the fact that I’m not willing to talk about it – and I’m a mental health blogger, that’s what I do for a job – [speaks volumes]." After her column came out, only a couple of people approached her saying they had made the same choice, but she believes it’s mostly because people don’t want to talk about it.

There’s a tendency to dismiss the issue as if it is not a real concern, she thinks: "When it comes to pregnancy, they would just think: 'Oh, you know, you want to have a baby? Have a baby! It’s not a big deal.' Especially older generations, they think: 'Stop whining for something that hasn’t happened yet!' but that’s what you do when you have a mental illness."

Fiona has been on medications since 2012, when she had a mental breakdown that forced her out of work for almost a year: "I don’t think I will ever be able to stop taking them. For me, managing has been taking medications and maintaining good lifestyle changes, like exercising and eating well, and trying to take rest when I need to and trying to minimise stress, [which] is a big trigger."

Medications are a concern for many women who are pregnant or thinking about having children. "Another serious misconception is that women can’t take medications when they’re pregnant or breastfeeding, and actually there are a lot of healthcare professionals giving the wrong advice," admits Dr. Seneviratne. "It’s perfectly possible, in 2018, to be on medication that is a bit safer in pregnancy and that you can breastfeed on." But women would need an appointment with a specialist able to guide them through their options. "It’s not the sort of information that any general practitioner would be able to tell you about."

Even hunting down information on the internet is not always helpful, she points out: "I might read on a website that, you know, if you have bipolar there’s a 50% risk of relapse [after childbirth] and that’s really scary, and so I might think: 'I’m not going to have a baby, I don’t want to get psychotic or manic', or my partner might be terrified of that," but that’s actually a perfectly manageable risk, she explains, if you receive the right support and treatment.

"Women can come for a pre-conception appointment for some advice, sit with a specialist psychiatrist who focuses on what the impact of having babies might be, and what to do with medications," Dr. Seneviratne advises. "There is no one that should be completely ruled out of parenting without having a good conversation like that."

That sounds very reassuring, of course, but resources remain insufficient. In an ideal world, you'd be able to be referred by a GP to a psychologist or one of the new special perinatal mental health services. Even in a country like the UK, or England specifically, the NHS’ investment in new services for mothers and babies has taken a generation of research. There's also the economic argument that if you don’t invest in the mother's mental health, there is an impact not only on suffering but on the development of the child as well, Dr. Seneviratne points out.

"I know that many women still won’t be able to get help in time, or have specialist advice in time," she admits. "Mental health teams, generally, in the UK are inadequately resourced, GPs are inadequately trained, symptoms might be minimised or not taken seriously, so there’s a huge amount to do."

It’s not surprising, then, that not everyone would feel confident about managing being a parent with a mental illness. And as an increasing number of young women in the UK are reporting mental health problems, it is crucial to raise awareness about their needs and, especially, to act upon them.

If you are in need of support, you can contact the following organisations:

Mind
Beat
NHS
Samaritans

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Dear Daniela,

I live in central London so I’m exposed to a lot of pollution, and it’s beginning to become more and more of a concern for me as I move through my 20s. I’ve got (what I think is) a fairly good skincare routine in place, but I’m wondering now if I should invest in some 'pollution-proof' makeup, too? I’ve seen a few products online and on Instagram that claim to be 'anti-pollution' – are they worth the investment?

Sara, 28

Pollution is the new sugar. Four years ago, when I was working in my first job as a beauty writer, I attended more presentations, seminars and launches than I could count on why a Kit Kat was kryptonite to your skin. Slews of studies on glycation (which is a very real thing, by the way) landed on my desk, and I was asked to write countless articles on ways to cut the sugar in your diet, how to reverse the damage and why it was so scary in the first place. But now that most of us sweeten our coffee with agave and have swapped our 4pm Pret Love Bar for a handful of almonds, pollution is in the crosshairs. And just like sugar, try as you might to avoid it, you can never swerve it altogether.

Fears around pollution are not misplaced. The beauty industry as a whole is only just starting to understand the impact it has on the skin, from accelerating the ageing process to seemingly playing a role in acne formation. There’s also the fact that pollution particles are so mind-bogglingly tiny, they can lodge themselves deep down in the skin, and apparently cause inflammatory problems. Basically, there is buzz and confusion, and where there is buzz and confusion, a new product with apparently miraculous qualities – yours for the low, low price of £30 – manifests. It’s physics.

I asked Rowan Hall-Farrise, head trainer at QMS, for her take. I’d looked online and found a few makeup items that claimed to be 'anti-pollution', but further than the odd antioxidant squirrelled away halfway down the ingredients list, I couldn’t find much to substantiate the claims.

"Even if a product contains some anti-pollution ingredients, there isn’t much proof they’ll work as expected once blended together with everything else," Rowan cautioned. "For example, while every company is different, some brands will test the efficacy of the component parts of their product, but not necessarily the end result."

Essentially, even if you started off with a raw ingredient that makes mincemeat out of pollution, when it’s blended with pigment, emollients and silicones, there’s no guarantee it’ll perform the same. "Also, think about how tiny pollution particles are, and how deep into the skin ingredients need to get to counteract that damage. Do you really want your makeup going that far in?" Rowan added.

The other thing to remember here (I promise the science lesson will be over soon) is stability. Vitamin C is an amazing antioxidant with wonderful skincare benefits. It’s also about as stable as a first-day Love Island relationship when a new hottie enters the villa. It’s hard enough getting it into a serum or lotion and maintaining the efficacy, let alone putting it into a cosmetic product. Rowan and I were in agreement: "Skincare and makeup are probably best kept separate. I understand the appeal of multitasking products but in reality, the concentrations of the ingredients and the formulation mean that any pollution-proofing claims are going to be very flimsy."

It’s worth noting that the physical shield of makeup alone does provide some protection as a barrier (an effect likely akin to using tissue paper to plug a hole in the Hoover Dam), and if a foundation or base product was going to provide a more robust shield, it would need to 'bounce off' pollution in the same manner sunscreen does to UV rays. "Ideally, it would also intercept damage at a cellular level and activate your skin’s own natural defences," added Rowan.

In short? We’re not there yet.

Instead, I think you’re better off fine-tuning that skincare routine of yours. Get a good serum – QMS EpiGen Daily-Detox Serum, SkinCeuticals CE Ferulic or The Ordinary Resveratrol 3% + Ferulic 3% are all good shouts. "I’d advise against using a physical scrub," explained Rowan. "They could cause micro-tears in the skin which makes you more susceptible to pollution damage. That’s not to say exfoliation isn’t important though. The presence of dead skin cells won’t let your skin’s barrier function be particularly efficient." Try Paula’s Choice 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant or Pixi Glow Tonic.

Of course, if a foundation you love claims to be pollution-proofing, that’s great. Use it anyway. Just don’t let it be your only line of defence in this battle.

Good luck!

Daniela

Got a question for our resident beauty columnist Daniela Morosini? No problem, qualm or dilemma is too big, small or niche. Email deardaniela@refinery29.uk, including your name and age for a chance to have your question answered. All letters to ‘Dear Daniela’ become the property of Refinery29 and will be edited for length, clarity, and grammatical correctness.

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Confession: I’ll do almost anything in the pursuit of glowing skin.

I’m a sucker for treatments and products that will make my visage the best it can be, whether it’s getting chemical peels, drinking goat's milk kefir (yes, it’s as rank as it sounds), or bathing in seaweed (yup, my flat smelled like the salty ocean). So when my favourite brands and stores started promoting beauty supplements, I jumped at the chance to ingest the potential key to 'perfect' skin.

I’m a dedicated taker of vitamin D (as all office-bound residents of this rainy, grey island should be) but for one month, I put a handful of new supplements, containing everything from collagen to biotin, to the test. Would popping a few promise-the-world pills every morning achieve a plump, radiant complexion, or is it all a marketing ploy fuelled by influencer-promoted brands?

Cosmetic doctor Galyna Selezneva says that we can trace the rise in beauty supplements to the all-pervasive wellness trend. "People are more health-conscious and the pace of modern life is taking a significant toll on our health," she says. "Increasing stress levels means that people are looking for products which can better help their bodies to cope."

We could also be deficient in natural vitamins and minerals thanks to modern western living, Dr. Lorraine Hill, founder of the Hampton Clinic, argues. "Over-farming and pesticide use have led to our soil, and therefore our food, becoming less nutrient-rich. If you want great skin, it is not enough anymore to just work on the skin externally with home care regimes and treatments."

As we’ve seen, more and more women are adopting a holistic approach to beauty, combining topical products with a well-regimented diet, injectables and now supplements to achieve their best ever skin.

For Dr. Anjali Mahto, consultant dermatologist at Skin55 and author of The Skincare Bible: Your No-Nonsense Guide to Great Skin, the trend has been fuelled by the internet. "We’re seeing a boom in supplements due to the wealth of information, endorsement and opinion of them, which are so easily accessible and available online and on social media," she says. From the Kardashian-endorsed SugarBearHair gummies to the Barbie-pink Halo Beauty Booster, which has a 108k Instagram following, before-and-after photos and testimonials from social media influencers have taken supplements from the shelves of Holland & Barrett to an essential step in a well-rounded beauty routine.

So how do they work? Our bodies naturally contain a host of vitamins and minerals but depending on genetics, lifestyle, pregnancy and any number of other factors, we can become deficient. Supplements containing vitamins or minerals serve as a top-up, bringing our levels back to normal. Anything over the percentage our body can take is usually urinated out. For example, Dr. Selezneva says, "To reach a sufficient amount of glutathione, the mother of all antioxidants, you would have to eat at least 3kg of asparagus, which has the highest amount of glutathione compared to any other food. The way around this if you are deficient would be to simply take a prescribed dose." For patients with long-term medical issues, she recommends a baseline blood test to find the deficiency before prescribing the relevant supplements.

However, Dr. Selezneva warns, "Not all supplements are created equal and it is important to be careful with your choices." With a myriad of new supplements out there, it’s key to be able to spot an Instagram fad before popping the pills. According to Dr. Hill, warning signs include doses of ingredients listed not being high enough and not being encapsulated in the correct way to penetrate your stomach acid. "Something to look out for is the GMP (Good Manufacturing Process) mark," she says. "This symbol certifies the product's integrity and quality. It is not an industry standard so you can be sure you're getting the good stuff when you see this mark."

The first supplement I try is OUAI’s Thinning Hair Supplement. An editor once told me it strengthened and repaired her chemically straightened hair, so I had high hopes. Containing amino acids, biotin and omegas 3 and 6, it promises "stronger, shinier hair". After one month of one tablet a day, I’m pleased to report my hair is less static and frizzy, and in solid condition even after a recent bleach - although that could by the INNOluxe treatment I recently had. I can’t tell if there's new growth – my hair doesn’t feel thicker or more voluminous – but I certainly think my ‘do is softer and less wiry.

Next up, I take Perfectil’s Platinum Collagen Skin Drink. There’s an army of collagen supplements out there; I suspect I reached for this one because the image of Nicole Scherzinger in the ads (they're everywhere, aren't they?) is burned into my brain. But I digress. These 50ml bottles contain marine collagen, hyaluronic acid, biotin and zinc, and should be taken after your main meal each day. I’ve avoided collagen injectables thus far but am aware that as we age, we lose our natural collagen, making our skin less plump than in our youth. I gobble these up but don’t notice much difference in the bounce of my skin, so I put it to the experts.

Dr. Mahto remains sceptical. "Collagen is a protein which is broken down in the gut during digestive processes to smaller molecules such as peptides and subsequently amino acids. There is little evidence that ingesting whole collagen will survive digestion and then travel in the bloodstream to the skin in high enough quantities to make any meaningful change to the skin’s structure or function." Even products that contain collagen peptides (fragments of collagen) aren’t worth it, she says. "I have often heard the argument that these collagen peptides 'fool' the body into thinking that collagen has been broken down, resulting in new collagen production. I would treat these arguments with caution as there are few robust, validated high-quality scientific trials to confirm this."

Lastly, I take RMS Beauty’s Beauty Within Probiotic + Prebiotic capsules. Probiotic diets and skincare have grown exponentially in the past several years, which industry experts assure me will only continue. Brands like Gallinée and drinks like kombucha are proving popular thanks to their abundance of good bacteria – the ones that fight infections, balance our skin and gut’s pH levels, replenish our immune systems and, in some cases, calm acneic and eczema-prone skin. I have to say, these were my favourite. They’re expensive, working out at £1 per pill, but I notice a marked difference in the brightness of my skin and, around my period, I don’t break out as heavily as I’m used to.

Of course, ingesting a cocktail of nutrient-rich supplements doesn’t make up for a poor diet. Just like thinking that a slice of lemon in your water will remedy the damage done on a big night out (guilty), you can’t eat only beige food and expect supplements to do the hard work for you (damn it). To cut through the white noise, what do our experts recommend taking as part of a well-rounded lifestyle? Dr. Selezneva uses ZENii, created by the award-winning Dr. Johanna Ward – "The products are clinically proven and made to incredibly high standards, including the testing of raw ingredients to ensure their quality, something which is definitely not an industry standard" – while Dr. Mahto advises old favourites like omega-3 fatty acids, zinc, vitamin B3 and vitamin A.

As with all aspects of beauty, there is no one-size-fits-all, particularly when it comes to vitamin and mineral deficiencies. What works for me may not work for you, but no one should be fooled into Insta celebrity-promoted gimmicks that have zero scientific backing. As Dr. Selezneva says, "Look out for supplements either founded by doctors or backed by doctors. They have chosen the best quality and most effective ingredients, or they can attest to their effectiveness, so these types of ranges are normally the best choices. My advice is simple: rely on research."

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Rejoice! Réalisation, the Australian brand founded by Alexandra Spencer and Teale Talbot that's flooded our Insta feeds over the past few years has arrived in London for the first time – meaning Brits can shop the brand without forking out for extortionate shipping costs.

The wear-anywhere tea dresses, wrap skirts, and blouses in an array of kitsch prints have long been on our radar thanks to an army of cool girls donning the pieces. From super influencers like Emili Sindlev and Lucy Williams to models like Kaia Gerber and Mélodie Monrose, the brand's 'Dreamgirls' have garnered them a cult following – and led to a rash of high street imitations.

The launch – a temporary residency in Selfridges – sees the online brand come to its European fanbase IRL for the first time. "As an online-only brand, we wanted to create a way to really interact with our 'Dreamgirls' all around the world, with our first stop being London," a statement from Réalisation reads. "It's a chance for women in destination cities to come and experience the Réalisation brand in person – feel the fabrics, find their perfect fit, and be the first to shop exclusive styles."

There are 13 exclusive pieces in-store at Selfridges, our favourite being the pink and black puff-sleeved Venus Newspaper Dress, printed with imagined Réalisation Times newspaper pages. Two of the brand's signature styles are available online, too: a mini wrap dress with ruffle detailing, and a midi wrap dress with capped sleeves.

The residency is only open until 15th July, so get there quick to bag one (or several) pieces from Instagram's most sought-after brand. Click through to see Réalisation's exclusive capsule and start compiling your shopping list...

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From skin cancer to burns, fine lines to pigmentation, we're all aware of the damaging effects UV rays have on skin, so for many of us, buying a day moisturiser that also contains SPF is a total no-brainer. Hydrated skin and sun protection – tick.

But a new study presented at the British Association of Dermatologists (BAD) 's annual meeting in Edinburgh found that the SPF in our trusty pot of moisturiser, whatever the factor, might not be offering us the UV protection we think it is.

The study concluded that "moisturisers with sun protection factor (SPF) provide less sun protection than the equivalent strength sunscreen in real-world scenarios," in other words, compared to a regular, targeted sun cream with no add-ons like face cream or foundation.

During the study, researchers from the University of Liverpool enlisted the help of a specially modified camera that captures UV light in order to look at the ways in which participants applied regular SPF and moisturiser containing SPF – and the results were very different.

After assessing the pictures, researchers found that when an area of skin is covered efficiently by SPF, it appears black. When they looked at the pictures of the people who had applied SPF moisturiser, their faces were comparatively lighter, which suggests SPF absorption was less successful and therefore less effective.

"We expected the area of face covered with moisturiser to be greater than sunscreen, in particular the eyelids because of the perception that moisturiser stings the eyes less than sunscreen," said Mr Austin McCormick, a consultant ophthalmic and oculoplastic surgeon, and one of the researchers. "In fact we found the opposite: the area of the face covered effectively was greater with sunscreen than moisturiser. In addition, where it was applied, the moisturiser provided less UV protection than sunscreen."

But that's not to say moisturiser with SPF doesn't provide sun protection – just a little less.

"Although skin moisturiser with SPF does provide sun protection, our research suggests that it’s not to the same degree as sunscreen," continued McCormick. "We do recommend moisturisers and makeup that contain UV protection – it is better than no protection at all, but for prolonged periods in the sun we recommend the application of sunscreen with high SPF."

The study also found that people are more likely to miss out certain areas of their face when applying SPF moisturiser, in particular, eyelids. According to BAD, this is a huge cause for concern, as "the eyelid area is a common site for skin cancers".

In addition, how you apply SPF is important, too, and it seems we aren't slathering on the moisturiser as thickly as a regular SPF. In fact the study concluded that people missed 16% of their face on average, compared to sunscreen, at 11%. Matthew Gass, of the British Association of Dermatologists, said: "A good way to prevent this from becoming an issue is to wear sunglasses and reapply sunscreen regularly. This should help protect the bits you miss from being exposed to excessive sun."

He concluded: "Unfortunately, moisturiser with SPF just doesn’t perform particularly well in real world situations compared to sunscreen. Although it may say factor 30 on the box, this study is just further evidence that lab testing conditions for these products don’t reflect how they are used."

The solution? Investing in a separate SPF to apply over your moisturiser. Sure, it might be a little bit of a faff in the morning, but it's definitely worth it.

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But quality alone time can also be empowering: an oasis in the middle of an otherwise overwhelming and busy week. More than a third of single Britons enjoy taking themselves out on solo dates, also known as "masturdating", according to a recent survey of 2,000 people. Turns out, women are more confident about dating themselves, with 41% saying they were happy to romance themselves, compared to around 37% of men. Five women told us how they like to spend their solo date nights (and days)...

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New York gubernatorial candidate Cynthia Nixon fired back at Vice President Mike Pence on Friday for slamming her after she called Immigration and Customs Enforcement (ICE) a "terrorist organisation."

"Senator Elizabeth Warren, Senator Kirsten Gillibrand, and the mayor of New York City Bill de Blasio have all already called for ICE's abolition," Pence said while visiting an ICE headquarters in Washington, D.C., according to CNN. He added that "a leading candidate for governor of New York" — that would be Nixon, who is cutting into Gov. Andrew Cuomo's lead — "appallingly called this agency a 'terrorist organisation.'"

"The American people have a right to their opinions, but these spurious attacks on ICE by our political leaders must stop," he said to applause.

Judging by the way the Abolish ICE movement has picked up steam, they won't. While the call to abolish ICE is not new, a growing number of progressives are calling for an end to — or at least a serious reexamination of — the agency responsible for arresting and detaining immigrants. Among them is Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez, a Democratic Socialist who recently defeated one of the most powerful Democrats in the U.S. House of Representatives and who has endorsed Nixon (and vice versa). Senators Gillibrand and Warren have joined the cause, as have Representatives Pramila Jayapal of Washington and Nydia Velázquez of New York and NYC Mayor Bill de Blasio.

I can think of no better description than to call ICE a terrorist organization, and I will wear any criticism from Mike Pence as a badge of honor.

In response to Pence, Nixon made it clear that she won't abandon her position. "If Mike Pence is attacking me, we must be doing something right," she said in a statement. "What’s really appalling is how ICE tears children away from their parents," parents who have lived in the U.S. for decades, pay their taxes, and have no criminal record. "I can think of no better description than to call ICE a terrorist organisation, and I will wear any criticism from Mike Pence as a badge of honour."

ICE was created in 2003 (so any notion that we wouldn't have borders or security without it is ludicrous). Until then, the Immigration and Naturalisation Service (INS), created in 1933, handled immigration and border enforcement. Thanks to ICE — and the Trump administration's zealously hard line on immigration — arrests of undocumented immigrants have increased, including those who have lived in the country for decades and have no criminal record. This has created constant fear of jailing and deportation among communities of colour, and Trump's backers only serve to embolden it.

The White House has gone so far as to target Sen. Warren and Sen. Kamala Harris — who has called for a reexamination, not a total abolition, of ICE — using inhumane language in its tweets. "Why are you supporting the animals of MS-13? You must not know what ICE really does," the official White House account tweeted at Harris. Harris replied, citing the administration's family separation policy: "As a career prosecutor, I actually went after gangs and transnational criminal organisations. That's being a leader on public safety. What is not, is ripping babies from their mothers."

ICE is a terrorist organization, and its egomaniacal leader is Donald Trump. Sign our petition to #AbolishICE: https://t.co/sZ3VF6lRhE https://t.co/qsB6XiJUJc

— Cynthia Nixon (@CynthiaNixon) June 22, 2018

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'Wellness' has infiltrated every aspect of our lives, from the way we work – let's put a ping pong table in a meeting room so you can connect with your inner child! – to our diet and sleeping rituals, and the beauty industry is no different.

From self-care Sunday skincare routines and hair products with all-natural ingredients to our never-ending obsession with essential oils, the industry has, of late, taken on a decidedly more holistic outlook.

So when I first heard about The Calmery, a clinic based in London's Harley Street offering energy healing and reiki facials, I wasn't surprised – but I was intrigued.

It's fair to say I'm a sceptic when it comes to alternative healing. I roll my eyes at Ayurveda, have no patience with yoga classes, and I keep crystals because they look cute, not because I think they will clear my energy. I especially don't have time for people who think you can tackle your mental health issues – whether it's anxiety or addiction – with 'positive thinking'.

That said, like every other London-based 'millennial' battling soaring rent prices, an increasingly long commute, and an all-pervasive digital world, I am stressed. The NHS is under immense pressure, so waiting lists for CBT and other therapies are months, sometimes years, long. In fact, the popularity of the wellness phenomenon and the rise in things like reiki facials has arguably come about through frustration with the lack of resources to aid people's general wellbeing. Perhaps it is time for me to start looking at alternatives?

And so I jump to The Calmery's site, and am met with the following statement:

"The Calmery is a place where you can experience an absolute, perfect calm, bringing a stop to your whirring mind, ease to your stressed body and a feeling of completeness to your spirit. We help you get there using energy healing. You don’t need to be spiritual, religious or interested in the supernatural to benefit. You don’t even need to believe that it works. Let us change your mind."

Thankful that I wouldn't be the first sceptic to walk through its doors, I booked myself in for the newly launched reiki healing facial.

Apparently, reiki was founded in 1922 by Mikao Usui, a Japanese monk who used the treatment as "a complementary therapy for the treatment of physical, emotional, and mental diseases." This site explains that the practice is based on the idea that an unseen "life force energy" flows through us – it's what causes us to be alive. If one's life force energy is low, then we are more likely to get sick or feel stress; if it's high, then we find it easier to be healthy and happy.

Over the years it's been adapted and mutated into various different practices used across the world, but as The Reiki Association explains, the experience itself is essentially the same. "The recipient remains clothed and lies on a couch or sits on a chair and relaxes. The practitioner gently places their hands in a series of non-intrusive positions on or near the body."

Most places I look state that reiki is a form of pseudoscience, alternate medicine, and has no medical or scientific evidence behind it, but with those NHS waiting times in mind, I resolve to keep an open mind.

Sushma Sagar, the founder of The Calmery, used to be a global fashion brand director, balancing her healing work with her 9-5, and now uses her practice as an antidote to workplace stress. She created the reiki healing facial after noticing that although her clients came to her primarily for emotional reasons, post-treatment, their faces looked brighter. "One thing that I noticed was, on leaving, they often looked subtly different; their faces lighter having shed some of the stresses they came in with. Sometimes if people released a lot, the change would be dramatic and we would both be blown away… in a good way!"

"I may make some strange noises," she warns, adding that the treatment "will not remove issues from your life, nor will it physically remove wrinkles from your face, but what it can do is give you an inner radiance of someone who feels calm, someone who isn’t letting life get them down. Everyone responds differently, some quicker than others, but in general, when your energy is flowing well and you feel able to handle whatever life throws at you … it shows in your face."

So I lie down on the bed – incense burning, the kind of 'calming' music you hear in every spa in the world playing – and shut my eyes. I feel Sagar's hands moving around my face, just an inch or two away, before they stop in certain positions. Her left hand on my cheek, her right under the base of my skull; her left-hand fingers on my forehead, her right palm on my shoulder. Then the noises start.

Oh god. I am thoroughly alarmed. An array of animalistic moans, high-pitched squeaks, 'mmmMMMMmmmmM!'s and 'OoooOooohhhhhHhhhh's leave her mouth. The only time you might expect such unearthly sounds is in bed with a willing partner or on a maternity ward. Hearing these wails and groans come from someone I've just met in such an intimate space is uncomfortable for me – a stoic Brit who says sorry when someone stands on my foot on the Tube. Sagar had also warned me that it might sound like my "energy was hurting her" but that she would be absolutely fine. But that didn't prepare me for her jolts and flinches when she touches parts of my face.

Sagar's noises and shudders don't stop, but I find myself sinking into the bed. At some point, both of my arms begin to tingle, which she had explained might happen. Then she has her fingers above my brow and draws them up before clicking, and I feel something pull up from my head with her fingers. This could just be the pressure change, but I do make a note of it.

Next thing I know, Sagar's softly telling me that she's done and to get up slowly when I'm ready. I feel like it's only been 15 minutes since she started, but she points to the clock on the wall and it has in fact been 50. I sit up and feel utterly spaced out – like I'm both stoned and have just been woken up after a long sleep. She tells me that she's worked through my head, shoulders and chest and cleared as much of the blocked energy as she could, and that there was a particularly tough area over my left cheek. "I've cleared that now, though."

She encourages me to look at my face in the mirror but I don't notice much of a difference – perhaps I look the same as I do after a weekend of lie-ins and no boozing? I find it hard to concentrate on what she's saying, and leave to head home.

I feel light and serene walking down Oxford Street (words no one has ever said), and the busy work day and hellish journey to The Calmery feel like a distant memory. I watch the World Cup when I get home, and have a pretty average night's sleep. I don't wake up feeling any different, to be honest. I'm certainly not convinced by reiki – it feels too ethereal, too vague to get to grips with, and the noises and flinching were stressful – but there's no denying how chilled I was after the treatment.

The thing is, though, I have that very same feeling after a massage or facial, or even getting my nails done. I think human touch and an hour of enforced quiet with your eyes shut make everyone feel better and more in tune with their busy minds.

If spirituality is your thing, this would probably be right up your street path to enlightenment; but I'll be sticking with a good hydrating facial or Swedish full-body massage to unwind and clear my ever-busy head.

Book an Energy Healing Session at The Calmery here.

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If haute couture week isn't usually on your radar, we forgive you (this time). But you just missed a really, really good one.

For the last of the autumn 2018 lineup, designers and their clients gathered in Paris for their annual offering of ultra-expensive, made-to-measure fashion. It depends who you ask, but akin to ready-to-wear collections, haute couture informs the fashion supply chain just as any other week of Fashion Month. The crowds may be smaller, but the fair is no less impactful or important to the industry at large. It's why fashion journalists look at it with the same eyes, and it's why something else stood out this past week that shouldn't go unnoticed: This season was the most diverse haute couture week in decades.

More on that in a second, but first: In the 1970s, it was the late designer Hubert de Givenchy who first brought diversity to the French couture runways. His decision to use models such as Billie Blair, Alva Chinn, China Machado, Jennifer Brice, Pat Cleveland, Bethann Hardison, and Ramona Saunders caught him flack with the press, including pushback from his own clients. But he continued to do so, with Clare Waight Keller carrying on that legacy today. And we can't forget what Yves Saint Laurent did for Black women in Paris on the ready-to-wear circuit (see: Iman, Katoucha Niane, and Dalma Callado, to name a few).

But as the rest of the industry works to make runways more diverse, the same hasn't been said about one fashion capital — Paris — especially during haute couture. The city has always trailed behind when it comes to diversity of all kinds. Where most French houses rely on agencies to supply them, per se, with a diverse lineup of models for their shows, agencies will tell you there isn't enough money in haute couture worth sending models to Paris for. And thus, the cycle continues. For haute couture, brands like Valentino, Jean Paul Gaultier, Dior, Schiaparelli, and Armani lead the charge with more models of color than you can count on two hands (including Asian and Middle Eastern models). Others, like Maison Martin Margiela, Guo Pei, and Alexis Mabille cast less than three Black models, each, for their shows.

Why this matters is more important now than ever: There's a longstanding assumption that haute couture clients are European, Russian, or Middle Eastern. That designers are choosing to use more Black models during haute couture than ever before is a feat in itself, that they're doing so when the portion of their couture customers remains comparatively small to the bulk of their (mostly white) business is, as the etiquette of couture goes, silent yet revolutionary.

And it's why, in the slideshow ahead, we're celebrating the Black models that ruled the fall 2018 season of haute couture — from Adesuwa Aighewi to Indira Scott (whose exclusive with Dior saw her close out the show, her second catwalk ever), Adut Akech as Chanel's 'Bride' (the second Black model in history to do so, following in the footsteps of Alek Wek) — and more and more and more.

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In the streets of Baltimore, Lakeyria Doughty has made a name for herself as the Wheelie Queen. To do what she loves, however, the Queen has to put her own safety on the line, skirting the law and avoiding danger.

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If you've ever had to worry about where your next paycheque would come from, you know how anxiety-inducing and depressing it can be to feel like you don't have enough to survive on.

Though depression is a complicated condition and there's often not one single cause for it, there are definitely plenty of factors that can contribute to someone experiencing depression — including poverty. And, in recent years, more research has pointed to the idea that poverty is one of the things that can be linked to mental health problems, specifically depression.

A 2012 survey from Gallup found higher rates of depression amongst people who lived in poverty (31% of those living in poverty also experienced depression versus 16% of people not in poverty who also had depression). While the researchers conducting the poll said that they weren't able to determine exactly why the rate of depression doubled for the poor, the data suggests that there's some link between a person's financial situation and their state of mind.

And in 2016, a study from Duke University researchers suggested that low socioeconomic status might even change a person's DNA and increase their chances of becoming depressed. The researchers found that teens from low economic backgrounds experienced changes to a gene that increases activity in a part of the brain that's involved in fight-or-flight responses — and that increased activity is linked to a higher risk of depression.

To be clear, people aren't suffering because money necessarily brings happiness, but it can bring stability, which in turn can lead to higher levels of contentment. In a 2016 study from Princeton University, researchers conducted a trial where they gave cash grants (around £500) to families in Kenya, and found that these families experienced higher levels of satisfaction and lower levels of depression than before they had the money.

And although financial situations are just one of many potential causes of depression, it's not hard to imagine why not having enough, or even just having to worry about your next paycheque can seriously affect your mental health.

Debra Kissen, PhD, a member of the Anxiety and Depression Association of America, says that because stress is associated with situations where your survival or safety feels at risk, not having enough to survive on is definitely something that would trigger a stressful response in your body. And feeling stressed over a consistent period of time can be overwhelming and increase your risk for depression.

"When you have that chronic stress response, where every day you’re dealing with this situation, trying to move past it, [the stress] moves to being hurtful for the brain and the body," she says.

Even if you aren't living in poverty, you can still feel the effects financial strain can have on your mental health. If you're less than well-off, you might also be working long hours to make as much as you can, and focusing all your energy on work, leaving no time for things you'd do for fun. And that would make an impact on anyone's mental health. Additionally, being unemployed or losing a job and not knowing what's next can be brutal, too.

"If one’s identity is very tied to career success and financial success, it becomes, If I’m not this person [who's working], then who am I? " Dr. Kissen says.

Despite how much cash you have in your pocket, being depressed and financially strapped can feel like a discouraging cycle, where a person's circumstances are hampering their mental health, but they don't have access to therapy, which unfortunately can be expensive.

There's no replacement for therapy, and no easy fix for a mental health problem, but Dr. Kissen says that there are still plenty of ways to take care of yourself when you can't go to a mental health professional, like making sure you exercise and make connections with other people, or going to local group therapy sessions, which can often be a more affordable alternative.

"Anytime you're doing anything beyond yourself, you’re getting a more broadened perspective beyond what’s making your own life difficult," she says.

And while that won't fix everything, it's a start.

If you are experiencing depression and need support, please contact Samaritans on 116 123. All calls are free and will be answered in confidence.

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Ella Mai feat. Nicki Minaj & Quavo "Boo'd Up (Remix)"

Discerning minds already have "Boo'd Up" on their summer of '18 jams playlist. The thoroughly charming song by British songstress Ella Mai gets a reinvention in this remix, which adds Nicki Minaj and Quavo from Migos. It's a little more trap and a little less of Mai's soulful crooning, ostensibly to make it a bit more rap radio friendly, but a little extra "Superbass" never hurt anyone. One thing that doesn't get reworked: the feeling of longing and crushing that makes the O.G. song so damn likeable.

Adeline "Emeralds"

Adeline is bring just a touch of funk and a healthy dose of her French-Caribbean heritage with "Emeralds," and it's a damn joy to hear. If this is what the second coming of disco is going to be like, with some of those old-school Moog sounds and modern trap beats, then let's bring back disco. Adeline is one to catch at Afropunk this summer.

Mala Rodríguez "Gitanas"

You don't have to speak Spanish to catch some kind of feeling from this Mala Rodríguez track; the power she's putting into it is shooting off like fireworks. But, if you don't, this track is an ode to feminism, gypsies, and #MeToo. It's her ode to the power of gitanas, the marginalised class of Romani women who taught her about protecting and standing up for herself. In short, how to be a feminist. The final dance scene speaks to the power of women as a whole and gives me chills.

The Shindellas "Reconsider"

The Shindellas are bringing back that old-school girl group style (shout out to Pitchfork for their coverage of the history of girl groups, which I highly recommend you deep dive into). Forget your TLCs and Spice Girls, they're taking it back to the true classics who invented the idea. It's a real treat to listen to their harmonising, but with updated lyrics for our modern times. As enjoyable as so many of the old girl groups were, the songs aren't exactly empowering, and they existed in a heteronormative vacuum.

Sonta "Crushing"

Everyone knows that summer crush feeling. Sonta is really taking me back to those days of working as a hostess in the family restaurant with this track, and crushing on the boy who worked at the fireworks stand. What really gets me is the raspiness in her voice, which plays off the sticky sweetness of the song's lyrics. It makes for a beautifully conceived vocal performance.

After my first job at MTV working as a music programmer, I can't stop trying to matchmake people with music they might like. So, I wrote a book calledRecord Collecting for Girls and started interviewing musicians. The Music Concierge is a column where I share music I'm listening to that you might enjoy, with a little context. Follow me on Twitter or Facebook, or leave me a comment below and tell me what you're listening to this week.

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When the hot weather arrives, your hair is always first to feel the effects.

Public enemy number one? Humidity. Whether you have straight, wavy, curly or coily lengths, there will undoubtedly be a dubious layer of frizz and flyaways to contrast the beautiful British sun, and it's a result of excess moisture in the air. Think of your hair like a sponge: A dry sponge will soak up water and expand, while a wet sponge has no room for water, and therefore maintains its shape. In other words, hydrated hair = happy hair.

Next up: Fluffy ends. A combination of prolonged sun exposure and heated tools will cause splitting and straw-like dryness, and that's before we've touched on colour fade (thanks again, UV rays) and lack of volume.

But all is not lost in this warm weather, and if you're still in pursuit of a polished 'do, then we've got you. Ahead, we've curated the very best products to see your hair through the summer.

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The hashtag #SundayFacial trends at the end of every weekend, and with good reason. Alongside a slap-up roast, getting lost in a good book, a dog walk or yoga class, spending some TLC time in your bathroom is one of the best ways to fend off the fear of Monday.

Whether your beauty routine is more centred around relaxation – a bathtub strewn with candles, a facial oil massaged into your skin – or pumping and prepping your visage with your favourite products for another working week, the ritual itself is an important time-out.

Ahead, Refinery29 staff talk through their #SundayFacial, from the routines they've finessed to the products they favour. Click through to get some inspiration for your own end-of-week at-home spa session. Aaaaand relax.

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This intense heatwave we've been sweating through could very well be a preview for the potentially life-changing solar eclipse this Friday, 13th July. Combined with the continued Mars retrograde (which kicked off late last month), this solar event could mean big changes for all of us. But don't let your temper get the better of you. Instead, at least try to relax, reflect and recharge when you'd rather resist the changes that are already underway. Shifts and transitions are natural, after all.

As good as it feels to release negative energy, it's more important to maintain balance, stargazers. Keep this pursuit of harmony in mind as you move through the week. The effects of Friday's solar eclipse may feel even stronger than usual, thanks to a supermoon occurring between Thursday and Friday. Remember to breathe and take any challenges in stride — and trust that you will come out on top.

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The organisers of Pride in London are facing heavy criticism after an anti-trans group was allowed to disrupt – and then lead – Saturday's parade through the capital.

A small group of around 10 women, who claimed to be protesting against "lesbian erasure" within the LGBTQ rights movement, were able to force their way to the front of the parade at its starting point.

Because no apparent action was taken to remove them, they were effectively able to "lead" the parade as it made its way down Regent Street – ahead of around 30,000 legitimate marchers.

According to LGBTQ website Pink News, the anti-trans protesters started chants of "Get the 'L' out of Pride" and held banners saying "Transactivism erases lesbians".

They also distributed leaflets filled with hateful anti-trans propaganda. Wilfully misgendering trans women, the leaflets included absurd false claims such as "heterosexual men who pretend to be women are now trying to impose themselves as 'lesbians' on the rest of the world".

If you support this transphobia and separatist bigotry, you’re no friend of mine - nor anyone else. These leaflets were handed out at #prideinlondon and have everything to do with shame and nothing to do with #pride pic.twitter.com/njbopd3MPB

— 𝖯𝖾𝗇𝗇𝗒 𝖢𝖲 𝖠𝗇𝖽𝗋𝖾𝗐𝗌 🌈🔥 (@pennyb) July 7, 2018

The decision to allow the anti-trans group to participate in the parade caused outrage on Twitter, with trans comic artist Julia Kaye branding it "absolutely disgraceful". Read a selection of reactions below.

Last year @PrideInLondon had an advertising campaign targeted at straight people

This year they've allowed anti trans bigots to lead the march.

They clearly dont care about trans folks or the wider lgbt community

but hey, as long as you get the sponsor bucks

— Kate (@uhh_kate) July 7, 2018

Happy Pride to everyone but the anti-trans protesters who hijacked the parade and @PrideInLondon who let it happen https://t.co/o84EEYG9Oj

— Zing Tsjeng (@misszing) July 7, 2018

I wish I was at pride London right now to help people do something about those fucking anti trans bigots leading the march. How the hell has that even been allowed?!

— 🏳️‍🌈 Cass 🏳️‍🌈 (@DalishCassassin) July 7, 2018

Allowing transphobes to lead the London Pride parade was an absolute disgraceful decision

I can’t believe they were allowed to hand out their trash propaganda as crowds were apparently told to cheer them on

As if their bigotry was just another facet of the queer community

— Julia Kaye (@upandoutcomic) July 7, 2018

a group of anti-trans lesbians tried to lead and disrupt the London Pride Parade. transphobia is so much more disgusting when it’s coming from the lgbt+ community itself. either support the community as a whole, or get the fuck out. https://t.co/QMGZnlaXnJ

— kya (@softsadsatan) July 7, 2018

Happy #PrideInLondon everyone! I am a proud trans woman and I am proud to support ALL the #LGBT people in the world. A massive fuck you to the people highjacking #Pride to protest against trans rights. You are disgusting and pathetic 🖕 #LOVEWINS pic.twitter.com/SGsWUyNohd

— Katy Montgomerie (@KatyMontgomerie) July 7, 2018

In a statement posted on Facebook, the chair of LGBT+ Liberal Democrats, Jennie Rigg, called for the organisers' resignation, writing: "I am appalled that transphobic protestors were allowed to lead the march and the crowd asked to cheer them on. This is a betrayal of the thousands marching. The Pride organisers should resign and offer a full apology."

However, a Pride in London spokesperson has defended the decision not to remove the anti-trans protestors, saying: "Every year, Pride is attended by hundreds of thousands of people who demonstrate that Pride still matters.

"Given the hot weather and in the interest of the safety for everyone attending today’s event, the parade group was allowed to move ahead. We do not condone their approach and message and hope the actions of a very small number people does not overshadow the messages of the 30,000 people marching today."

A spokesperson for the Metropolitan Police added: "A small group at the front of the Pride in London parade were dealt with quickly and safely by event organisers at 1pm on Saturday. Police did not need to intervene. No arrests were made."

One marcher noted that although the anti-trans group marched at the front of the parade, they most certainly didn't lead it in spirit.

Stopping the Pride parade for hours to remove protestors would’ve been very dangerous in that heat BUT pls remember that those TERFs DID NOT “lead the parade” - they were pushed along in front of it.
They were bugs on a windshield.
The march for LGBTQ+ equality is UNSTOPPABLE 🌈

— Rob Holley (@robholley) July 8, 2018

Pride in London has already faced criticism this year over the way it runs the capital's annual Pride festival. Stonewall, the UK's largest LGBT charity, decided not to attend this year's event because of "concerns about the lack of diversity and inclusion".

Meanwhile, LGBT+ rights campaigner Peter Tatchell has accused the event of allowing corporate sponsors to dominate the parade ahead of human rights organisations. "Many of the companies have degayed their floats. They don’t mention LGBT+, just Pride," he told The Independent.

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William Mahnken’s episode in season 2 of Netflix’s Queer Eye was definitely a memorable one. Mahnken, who shocked Tan France when he told him Fraiser Crane was his style inspiration, was made over by the Fab Five and had one goal: to ask his girlfriend, Shannan Eller, to marry him.

After his makeover was finished, Mahnken took his longtime girlfriend to an outdoor movie screening, where he proposed to her with a video Karamo Brown helped him make. Eller loves romantic comedies, so the video depicted Mahnken coming up with a new word for “love,” which he concluded was “Shannan.”

The couple did not waste any time tying the knot! They recently got married private ceremony on the beaches of Amelia Island off the coast of Florida, according to Mahnken’s Instagram post.

Queer Eye ‘s social media channels also shared images of the couple’s beautiful sunrise wedding on the beach.

Congratulations William and Shannan! Thank you for letting us be a part of your love story and we hope that the next phase of your life is filled with love, movies, and a lot of avocado goddess! We Shannan you both 💖✨💕

A post shared by Queer Eye (@queereye) on Jul 7, 2018 at 10:15am PDT

The caption read, “Congratulations William and Shannan! Thank you for letting us be a part of your love story and we hope that the next phase of your life is filled with love, movies, and a lot of avocado goddess! We Shannan you both.”

Mahnken and Eller were not the first marriage to come out of the show. In season 1, the Fab Five helped Tom Jackson rekindle his romance with ex-wife Abby Parr — the two got back together, broke up, then finally remarried earlier this year. Jackson even wore the tailored suit and shirt France helped him pick out.

Abby and I got married!!!!!!!👰🏻❤️👨🏻💞😍Gatlinburg, Tennessee at Chapel at the Park💒Just the two of us, an elopement wedding then a honeymoon in the mountains!⛰💘🏨😊Check out the article written about us in Us Weekly magazine!!!!https://t.co/F0X3Vzvfyq pic.twitter.com/yBcy4A6q18

— Tom Jackson (@TomJack20176306) May 10, 2018

Season 2 also helped two long time friends, Jason and Beth, come together during the fourth episode. According to BuzzFeed, Jason, who was planning to move to Reno, ended up staying for Beth.

Who else thinks Netflix should make a Queer Eye dating show?

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Obviously, Serena Williams is one of the greatest athletes of all time, with 23 Grand Slam tennis titles to her name.

She's also a beauty icon, Beyoncé video star, fashion entrepreneur and founder of her own charitable foundation. But this doesn't mean she's not relatable.

This weekend, while competing for an eighth Wimbledon title in south-west London, the tennis queen tweeted that she'd missed her baby daughter's first steps because she was hard at work on the practice court.

"She took her first steps... I was training and missed it. I cried," she told followers.

She took her first steps... I was training and missed it. I cried.

— Serena Williams (@serenawilliams) July 7, 2018

Williams' super-honest tweet drew similarly candid – and very heartwarming – replies from fellow mums who sought to console her. Frankly, the response she received showcases Twitter at its very best. Check out some of the supportive replies below.

I'm a housewife and was in the next room and I missed it. With both of the twins. Please don't feel bad. Be happy for her and be ready for the running after her.

— wondermom (@wondermomwic) July 7, 2018

Ah Serena. I’m with you there. I’m in Russia at a World Cup. I watched mine take her first steps on a video 😓 she’ll be proud of you when she goes up (I have to keep telling myself)

— Alison Bender (@alibendertv) July 7, 2018

I missed a bunch of firsts while I was at work. I hear ya, mama. It’s not easy. But our girls see us out there grinding + living our dreams and that’s got to mean something. Good luck in London - my daughter and I are both rooting for you! ❤️

— Raakhee Mirchandani (@Raakstar) July 7, 2018

I took my 1st child all the way to Israel on a trade mission. During a meeting I heard cheering out in the waiting area .... Yup, staff and husband and assorted strangers saw her 1st steps. It all turns out okay. #workingmomsrock

— jane swift (@janemswift) July 7, 2018

❤️ It's alright, she's just practising. She wanted to practise while you were gone so she can put on a better show for mama.

— K. (@under_six_feet) July 7, 2018

❤️ It's alright, she's just practising. She wanted to practise while you were gone so she can put on a better show for mama.

— K. (@under_six_feet) July 7, 2018

One of the most moving tweets came from a woman whose own working mother has recently passed away. "I never knew if she saw my first steps," Portia Roberson wrote. "But I know that her being a working mom made me strong, resilient and showed me how to be independent."

Lost my Mom one month ago. I never knew if she saw my first steps but I know that her being a working mom made me strong, resilient & showed me how to be independent even w/a great Dad to help! It was those lessons that are getting me through these days. Don’t beat yourself up!

— Portia Roberson (@PLRoberson) July 7, 2018

Williams, who gave birth to daughter Olympia last September, shared some advice about maternal health with Refinery29 earlier this year, revealing that she finds meditation has a beneficial effect on her parenting skills.

"I just downloaded this meditation app," she explained. "I was trying it, because I felt like I needed to clear my mind. The guy talks to you for a second, then you just sit, clear your mind, and think. I start it [and meditate for] like 3-5 minutes depending. I try to meditate more, because it helps me be better for my daughter and my family, and I think that's really important."

Williams continues her campaign for an eighth Wimbledon title at 3pm on Monday, when she'll face Russia's Evgeniya Rodina for a place in the quarter-finals. Best of luck, Serena!

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Nobody writes female characters like Gillian Flynn. Equal parts terrifying, manipulative, whip-smart, and hilarious, they’re always (whether hero, villain, or something in between) three-dimensional people with inner lives and flaws. They’re also some of the few literary characters who are just as magnetic on screen, as we saw in David Fincher’s 2014 film adaptation of Gone Girl. And now Flynn brings her 2006 novel Sharp Objects to television as a limited series on Sky Atlantic and NOW TV, directed by Jean-Marc Vallée of Big Little Lies fame.

Amy Adams stars as Camille Preaker, a reporter who returns to her childhood home of Wind Gap, Missouri, to investigate the murder of one pre-teen girl and disappearance of another. Camille, haunted by past trauma, medicates with alcohol and self-harm, and in hot and humid Wind Gap, the past is just as real as the present. This is a Southern gothic mystery that plays out like a ghost story.

We spoke to Flynn about adapting her books for film and television, and how they explore the violence committed by and against women. Sharp Objects premieres in the UK 9th July on Sky Atlantic and will also be available to stream on NOW TV.

Refinery29: So, I just finished this essay collection, Dead Girls by Alice Bolin...

Gillian Flynn: “Oh my gosh, people are going crazy for that book! I have it on my shelf, but I haven't started it yet.”

It’s wonderful! One of the things she writes about is the “the dead girl plot” where a woman’s death is the catalyst for the action, usually centred around a male detective. The “dead girl” is a main character, but she’s also voiceless, virginal, and pure. She’s not usually a real person. I feel like you subvert this trope in your books — especially in Sharp Objects. How deliberate that was for you?

“To me Camille very much identifies with the dead girls. Their murders rock her so completely and infect her so much. The question is not ‘why did this happen to them,’ but ‘why does this happen to us?’ Sharp Objects is very much a story of violence toward girls and violence done by girls and women. It’s a very personal thing. Why is so much violence always directed toward girls, and why do we direct so much violence toward ourselves, physically and psychologically?”

I’ve had this thought also of #MeToo as a true crime story. It hasn’t been explored that way, but there are so many criminal elements to it. And even though the book Sharp Objects is 12 years old, it feels so perfectly timed to be airing as a television series now. Why do you think that is?

“The timing is very strange. And there's a reason that women are the top consumers of true crime, in general. Why we watch the ID channel; why we watch Dateline; why we are so fascinated by it. I think it gives us a vocabulary to talk about these things that we're still not talking about, and it gives us this way in to talk about the violence that's directed at us every single day, and in many different ways, small and large.

“I talk to men all the time who try to make light of women’s situations, and I say, ‘Well, you don't understand a woman's day-to-day life. You don't have to walk through your day saying, ‘Okay well tonight, I'm going to go to this thing, and if I park here, I hope I don't get raped.’ You know, that never ever crosses your mind.

“I'm not someone who's a panicky person or nervous about that thing, but you still have to be conscious of that possibility. All women — half our population — have to be conscious of that idea. I was at a hotel the other night, and I thought, ‘God I'd love to go for a run, but gosh, I probably shouldn't.’I'm peeking out of the hotel window and thinking, if I do that and I get raped, no one's gonna feel sorry for me. It's not well-lit, and they're gonna go, ‘What was she doing out there anyway?’"

There is so much victim-blaming. There is an idea that women put themselves in “these situations.”

“Right. It would be like, ‘Why did she put herself in that situation anyway? She knew that was a possibility. That's no well-lit running path.’ No man has to think about that. I do think that there is a true crime element that we, as women, are interested in, because it gives us a way to discuss that strange underlying fear that is constantly there.”

You've done books, you've done film and now you're doing this limited series for television. They’re all such different mediums. Is there one you prefer?

“ It's tricky. Each one has a different quality to them, you know. Growing up, my parents were both teachers. My dad taught film and theatre, and my mum taught reading. I grew up toggling back and forth between those worlds: My mum was always putting a book in my hand and talking about how novels were constructed, and my dad was always telling me about how movies and TV were put together. I was always very comfortable with those worlds and never favoured one over the other. I was never taught to believe that one was better than the other necessarily. I always loved them both. Kind of, very deeply.

“But I was a writer from a very young age, so it came very natural to me, so the novels easily came first and still feel the most natural to me.”

And what was the experience like working with David Fincher on the screenplay for Gone Girl versus being in a TV writers’ room?

“ Gone Girl was a nice next step from the novel because I was collaborating in a slightly bigger sphere. I was writing the script, but I was writing a script based on my novel. It was still just me doing the writing and having the amazing mentor that David Fincher was. No one could ask for a better first mentor in the world. I just completely lucked out with that, and we were such a wonderful fit together. It was the perfect next step of writing a script.

“Doing TV was an insane plunge because I’ve never been in a TV writer's room. I will be honest with you — I do not know how people do that as a career regularly, day after day, year after year, because I found it really invigorating and thrilling, but also completely innervating.

“You’re just constantly on — it feels like being inside of a popcorn popper. I could see how it gets addictive because everyone there was very funny, bright, and sharp, and I looked forward to going to work every day because it was just fun. But I would get to the end of the day, and I was kind of on the floor. It was a lot for me. I’m a quiet little novelist who's used to her underground lair of safety, and it was like, ‘What the fuck just happened in there?’ It was thrilling, but it didn’t feel organic to how my brain and body chemistry usually works.It was a blast, but it was wild.”

What was it like having people pitch ideas for characters you created?

“It didn’t bother me at all. I’m not the kind of precious author of where everything has to be exactly as it was in the book. It's a very faithful adaptation, but my whole view on books to film in general is that I never want them to be the exact same thing. What is the point of that? I always think that they should be complementary to each other. Why would I bother going to see something that is exactly the way I'd imagined it or read it?

“I always went into it thinking let's play a little bit. And fortunately with [ Sharp Objects] it was 12 and wasn't still fresh in my brain. I hadn't looked at it since then. People would say things about characters doing something in the book and I would say, "Oh, did they? Oh I had forgotten that, okay!’"

Before you go, can you tell us what you’re reading and watching right now?

“My husband and I have been gobbling up Killing Eve, and he actually said, ‘This is so great and so strangely revolutionary because all the female parts are male.’ It’s never commented on, but the women on the show are doing all the action, and it's the man back home who is taking care of dinner, or the guy stuck back at the office doing the usual typing to pull up the information. Usually that’s a woman’s role, where it's like, ‘I'll get that information for you!’

"And I’m reading The Hate You Give, which is fantastic.”

This interview has been edited and condensed for clarity.

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