Admittedly, Halloween is my second favourite holiday after Christmas. I love dressing up, going to "haunted" attractions, and just getting to be someone/thing else for a night. But, every year when autumn creeps in, beyond the excitement, I start to feel a tinge of dread. Racist, sexist, and just overall offensive costumes are as inevitable as pumpkin spice lattes and as someone working in media, I'm usually tasked with covering them in one way or another.

I've done countless stories on people dressed in blackface; as rape survivors; as Indigenous people. I've written earnest tweets condemning such costumes, providing historical context explaining why these getups are so vile.

But this year, I am not taking the bait.

For years, it's been standard to call out every person who decided to don blackface, and dress up as Hitler or Nazis; to explain why costumes that made light of sexual assault weren't funny. The reasoning was, if you shamed these people hard enough publicly, if you chased them off social media, they would learn their lesson and understand why their costume was offensive and in poor taste. But after years of participating in this culture in some form, I've realised it's pointless.

Why? Because chances are people dressing their kids as Hitler and cartoonishly slathering their faces with black paint under the guise of dressing like a Black celebrity already know the costume is wrong. They know the racist history of blackface and minstrel shows. They know the horrors of the Holocaust and the pain the swastika symbol inflicts. They know that for Indigenous people a headdress has cultural significance.

They simply want to get a rise out of what they label as "social justice warriors." For them PC culture has ruined Halloween; liberals have taken the fun out of everything and made everything cultural appropriation. Divisiveness is their game and for too long we've all been unsuspecting players. This is the year I opt out.

Last week, explosive devices were sent to prominent Democratic officials and people who often draw the ire of President Donald Trump. In Kentucky, two elderly Black people were murdered by a white man with a history of racism. On Saturday, 11 people we shot dead inside a Pittsburgh synagogue by a man who yelled "All Jews must die!" and believed in racist conspiracy theories peddled by the president and other conservatives. Violent rhetoric and conspiracy theories don't just live online; hateful words and memes don't stay in the far corners of the internet on obscure message boards. The words go from lines of code on the internet to violence in the real world. A racist meme shared thousands of times on Facebook and Twitter may seem like an inconsequential joke to some, but it's a call to action for a hateful, unhinged person.

In the face of such horrific acts of hate and cruelty, it'd be foolish of me to devote time explaining to a person why their Ku Klux Klan costume is tasteless; why their Nazi soldier uniform is not an edgy nod to history. I'm not dignifying these attention seeking trolls.

Words and actions have consequences. If you're going to make the "mistake" of dressing up as something racist this year to be contrarian and controversial (at the risk of losing your job and reputation, too), be my guest. At this moment in time, there are real horrors to be dealt with that will be here long after the last trick-or-treater goes home on Halloween night.

Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?

Kamala Harris' Record As A Prosecutor, Explained

Wendy Davis, Known For Her 13-Hour Abortion Filibuster, Is Running For Congress

AOC Says Family Separation At The Border Has Created "Lifelong Trauma" For Children

The music industry still hasn’t figured out a way to rectify the fact that some of the people who are allowed to step through its doors and flourish are also reckless, predatory, and, in some cases, dangerous. Unless an artist is speaking out about an injustice done against them — like when Meek Mill was sent to jail earlier this year — the impact of crimes that celebrities commit against others is often swept under the rug as the business of performances and promotion go on without a hitch. In other words, the industry has no clue what to do with men that bring in a lot of cash despite doing really horrible things. And there is no better evidence of this than the stories that have come out about two Gen-Z rappers.

Tekashi69 (also stylized 6ix9ine) is probably breathing a sigh relief right now. Rather than serve any jail time, the 22-year-old rapper (real name Daniel Hernandez) was sentenced to four years probation on Friday for sexual misconduct involving a 13-year-old. The act was filmed and posted online in 2015, Hernandez later plead guilty to the use of a child in a sexual performance. According to Vulture, his admission was given under a “youthful offender” plea agreement that required him to obtain a GED, perform 300 hours of community service, and stay out of trouble. Hernandez failed to adhere to these requirements when he was arrested twice in 2018 — once for assaulting a 16-year-old fan and again after a traffic stop where he was also accused of assaulting an officer — prompting prosecutors to push for jail time during his sentencing on Friday.

In the wake of a decision that keeps him out of jail and able to continue building his career in music, it's understandable that Hernandez would be in a triumphant mood. He threw a party later that night to celebrate (the same party where his bodyguard was apparently shot). What I don’t understand is why media outlets like The Shade Room appear to be celebrating right alongside him. The Instagram-forward platform that boasts over 14 million followers not only broke news of Hernandez’s legal outcome, but reposted several cheerfully-toned pictures of him smiling and celebrating his daughter’s birthday. On Sunday, Power 105.1 — the nationally recognised NYC hip-hop radio station — hosted its annual Powerhouse NYC concert, bringing Tekashi69 out as surprise performer. The station released the following statement after the event, “Tekashi 6ix9ine receives a lot of hate from the media, but we got the opportunity to see the real 6ix9ine.”

What is clear from hip-hop’s treatment of both of these men is that institutions that help make big stars like XXXtentacion and Tekashi69 are still operating without a framework of social consciousness.

Before XXXtentacion (neé Jahseh Onfroy) was fatally shot in June, he was facing charges that included aggravated battery of a pregnant victim, false imprisonment, domestic battery by strangulation, and witness tampering. Harrowing testimony from his victim sent the internet into an uproar and sparked a debate about censorship when platforms like Spotify sought strip his music from their curated playlists. Since his death, Onfroy has been uplifted by other music industry players as a tragic martyr of creativity and talent in hip-hop. He posthumously won Best New Artist at this year’s BET Awards, and just last week, producer Mally Mall told The Cruz Show that Onfroy has unreleased music in which he collaborated with Rihanna and The Weeknd that will be coming out soon. That same week, audio recordings surfaced of Onfroy admitting to being violent towards his then-partner and participating in several stabbing incidents.

What is clear from hip-hop’s treatment of both of these men is that institutions that help make big stars like XXXtentacion and Tekashi69 are still operating without a framework of social consciousness. The music industry still hasn't been taken to task for repeatedly empowering men who prey upon and abuse women. James Brown, Ike Turner, Bobby Brown, R. Kelly, and Phil Spector have left a long legacy of ignored misogyny and sexist violence in the music industry. No matter how public or abominable the accusation, though, the beat literally goes on for these men and their careers. While the television and film industry slowly but surely moves to untangle the mess of its own institutionalised sexism in the wake of #MeToo, their musical counterpart has turned up the volume refused to listen.

I won’t pretend to have the answers. I think that our inclination to use a binary system of cancellation and standom for our favourite celebrities is counterproductive. It's true that the heinous actions of these artists don't cancel out their talent. Nor are they justifications for either of them to die, as some extremists suggested after Onfroy's death. However, platforms and companies that have the power to amplify the voices of artists to reach millions of ears, eyes, and hearts have a responsibility to at least engage in conversations about the systemic nature of misogyny. They certainly should not ignore issues of consent that plague so many of their male artists. Sure, listeners should engage in ethical consumption of the music they love. But at what point do we demand more of radio stations, media sites, artists with huge independent platforms, and record labels? How long do rapists, abusers, and predators get to be big elephants in a room that sounds really good? When do we demand that violence against women be taken seriously?

If you have experienced sexual violence of any kind, please visit Rape Crisis or call 0808 802 9999.

Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?

Ariana Grande & Taylor Swift Swept The VMA Nominations This Year

New Music To Know This Week: Brittany Howard, The Highwomen & More

The Best Tracks Off Beyoncé's New Album Are A Big "Mood 4 Eva"

I spend a lot of my time poring over and writing about bold (and sometimes questionable) beauty looks from fashion week and Instagram, and makeup artists such as Katie Jane Hughes and Terry Barber are two Insta favourites who aren’t afraid to rock the beauty boat and push the boundaries. If you aren't already obsessed, Barber takes inspiration from mundane objects like kitchen sinks or cold cuts of meat to whip up all manner of looks, while Katie makes a case for vinyl orange lids, glitter lips and sunset eyeshadow. Neither artist conforms to the 'usual' beauty ideals we see on social media – there are no uniform cut creases or sharp winged eyeliner here. Everything is much quirkier.

I look at these creations in awe and am floored by the skill, creativity and effort. But after browsing, I put my phone away and apply the same 'basic' makeup look I’ve worn since my teenage years. So I got to wondering how the alternative makeup looks I’m impressed by would translate into everyday life. Could they inspire me to be bolder? Would I feel embarrassed, liberated, or both? I stopped caring what other people thought about me a while ago, so in the name of research, I gave five very out-there trends a go. As that cheesy (possibly made up) Instagram saying goes: "People will stare, make it worth their while." Well, I'm going to try.

Yellow blusher

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Jess Cohen (@jdcmua) on Aug 25, 2018 at 9:31am PDT

I start by easing myself in with an alternative and colourful trend: yellow blusher. I’ve seen it pop up in beauty editorials and Instagram selfies galore lately, and people somehow manage to make it look passable. I created my blusher using MUA’s Silent Disco Eyeshadow Palette – the yellow hue, Techno, is bright enough to stand out on my cheeks, which are usually dusted with pink blush. I can report it’s very difficult to blend the colour yellow. I try to help the situation by extending the colour slightly into my eyeshadow – have I made it look worse? I add a stroke of black eyeliner for, er, contrast, but the citrus shade doesn’t go well with my colouring. I look like I'm suffering from a tropical disease.

Heading out, I decide to try and preserve my dignity via my clothes, which I’ve kept quite plain in an attempt to counteract my off-the-wall face. I can’t decide if this helps or makes me look even kookier. My boyfriend notes that I look like That Yellow Bastard from the Sin City comics; a niche reference, but not inaccurate. I ask my Uber driver what he thinks of my blush and he confesses he's "seen stranger things" – I don’t think he means the TV show.

After a while, going about your day you tend to forget what's on your face – and why people are looking. I pop into Marks & Spencer, and find a stunning new season knit in matching mustard. Would it be too much? I’m getting stares and conclude this look is a step too far for old M&S. I must leave and find my people. Perhaps an art gallery next time?

Vinyl lids and matching lips

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Katie Jane Hughes (@katiejanehughes) on Aug 10, 2018 at 7:16am PDT

I’m more hopeful about this one. Vinyl lids always look so cool and '80s. Makeup artist Katie Jane Hughes manages to look pretty yet seriously edgy when she wears the look, but I have neither her skill nor her cheekbones. I used MUA’s Silent Disco Palette once again, adding purple shade, Electro, to my eyes and Estée Lauder's Pure Colour Envy in Vengeful Red on my lips. I grabbed the cheapest clear lip gloss I could find for this look, as it wasn’t something I had in my makeup bag. I opted for Miss Sporty, purely because it was £2.99.

While I don’t despise this, I look like Ursula The Sea Witch, who, let’s be honest, is a legend. I take this look on public transport and within five minutes, things have gone awry. The wind has blown my fringe into my (very sticky) eyes, which are also slightly dripping at the outer corners. My vinyl lips look ultra shiny but I daren’t move or talk and I can’t drink my tea.

I snap a selfie as the man opposite looks on in bewilderment. I meet my best friend and say nothing, trying to pretend I look normal. She immediately asks why I "look like Boy George". I admit I did make a beeline for the nearest Boots, using the makeup station tissues and mirror to wipe off the majority of the gloss, but more for practicality than embarrassment. Vinyl makeup is a no from me.

Pressed flowers

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Michelle Humphrey 💅🏽 (@nailsbymh) on Sep 18, 2016 at 12:48pm PDT

After Preen’s SS17 catwalk featured models adorned with pressed flowers, thanks to makeup artist Val Garland, I’ve seen Instagram squares filled with foliage. Strangely, I’ve yet to see someone wear this IRL. For today’s makeup, I choose to use a classic English flower – the hydrangea. I’ve pre-pressed the petals, which is already 100 times more effort than I’ve put into my makeup for the last decade. Does this count as gardening? I stick these on with hairspray, a little eyelash glue and blind hope. Is eyelash glue safe to use on my cheeks, I wonder? Who knows, but it's probably best not to google. It’s a good job I work for myself as my boss (me) is very understanding of my office attire.

Later, I go to the supermarket and take my flowers with me. Perusing the cereal aisle, I try to ignore staff and customers' double-takes. "You could be going to or coming from a festival!" I repeat to myself in my head. I am looking down more, using my hair as a shield. As I panic-fill my basket in order to leave swiftly, disaster strikes and I lose three flowers to the supermarket floor. Much later, I lie on my bed, not unlike Sir John Everett Millais' "Ophelia". My boyfriend asks: "Just how long are you going to keep those on for?" But I've grown quite attached to my flowers by this point and would totally work this look again – perhaps for Glastonbury, rather than a food shop, though...

Black scribble eyeliner

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by ValGarland (@thevalgarland) on Mar 22, 2018 at 5:42am PDT

This is less of a bold beauty look and more of an on-face Art Attack, but after designer Junya Watanabe had models strut the runway with doodle-like scribbles on their face, many makeup homages followed suit.

Makeup artists Val Garland and Terry Barber are also advocates of the extreme eyeliner trend. I used Maybelline's Master Precise Liquid Eyeliner Pen and got scribbling. My attempt was more, let’s say, abstract than the intricate flower doodles I spied on Instagram. I don’t quite know what occasion this look would be appropriate for, but apparently it's not dinner – my friend says I look "quite like Mike Tyson", who isn’t someone I ever thought I’d be likened to, if I’m honest. I also realise I’m prone to frequently rubbing my eyes, which doesn’t mix well with the black scribbles. Would I ever wear this again? Perhaps for a Beetlejuice -themed Halloween party.

"Snogged off" lips

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by M·A·C Cosmetics (@maccosmetics) on Feb 23, 2017 at 10:00am PST

When MAC posts a beauty look to Instagram, you know it’s soon going to be 'a thing'. They shared this image – captioned "lollipop lips at @preenbythorntonbregazzi by @thevalgarland" – of a look created by the legendary makeup artist for Preen's AW17 catwalk show. She told Vogue: "It's about kissing and snogging. This girl goes clubbing, she’s confident and she loves kissing." Val used MAC’s Lipmix  and smudged out the line, then used a bigger brush to buff out the lipstick. She then applied gloss "within the lip line but not outside it".

This has a slight Heath Ledger as The Joker feel about it. I don’t understand how models manage to look okay in this; I think I look the worst I have all week. I tried (I really did) to make this look passable, carefully buffing a touch of red lipstick around my mouth, then adding the rest to my lips, but to no avail. To say it doesn’t look good would be an understatement. The men next to me in Starbucks certainly seem confused, and the barista looks at my mouth for about five seconds too long. I do enjoy the air of mystery it gives me, though. Have I a) Just had a really good snog in the toilets? Or b) Really enjoyed my croissant? I send a selfie to my oldest friend and ask how she thinks it looks. I get one word back: "Terrible." Well, that’s the end of that. This could be a great one to try if, like me, you’re never happy with the neatness of your lipstick line, or smudge it within five minutes. I’m usually exclaiming "the lipstick!" when my boyfriend tries to kiss me goodbye, but today he notes he "can’t make it look worse than it already does". Call me a makeup bore, but I don’t think I’ll be trying this again anytime soon.

The verdict

In conclusion, none of these looks had any positive feedback. They pushed me so far outside my beauty comfort zone. I think I’ll try to be braver with my looks in future (perhaps not snogged-lips-brave, though), and if I were forced to wear one again, I’d opt for the flowers. I have a newfound understanding of the fact that a model can make almost anything look chic, whereas I certainly can’t. Perhaps these trends should stay in the 4x4 squares of social media, where they belong.

Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?

How To Save A Botched Haircut, According To The Pros

Selena Gomez Has The Best Tattoo Collection — & No One Ever Noticed

Read This Before Getting A Tattoo In The Summer

Cancer. Not a word I thought I’d have to deal with at 29 years of age.

I was diagnosed with stage four non small cell lung cancer in April this year and in that moment, my whole life changed. I’d always been fit and healthy. I was active, ambitious and career-driven. I began experiencing upper back pain in March – the first symptom that anything was wrong – but I just put it down to my busy lifestyle. Within a couple of weeks, my upper chest was visibly swollen; this is when I knew something wasn’t right. The swelling got so bad I was struggling to breathe and so, at the recommendation of my GP, I made a trip to A&E. My partner and I were even joking in the waiting room, laughing at how my appearance had changed so significantly, as my face had swelled up too. We didn’t expect to hear the word 'cancer'. My diagnosis came as a complete shock to me, and my family.

I’m a second-generation immigrant. My mother was born in Pakistan and came to England in the 1980s. In south Asian culture, people are determined to present the very best versions of their lives. Perception is everything. Talking about health is a massive taboo, because this goes against everything they believe in. Illness is not part of the picture.

Health issues are often hidden and rarely discussed. You’d only hear of someone’s ill health in a gossipy context. It’s always through word of mouth, never directly from the person or family. This is why I believe there’s such a gap in south Asians' knowledge of health. They don’t want to accept that diseases like cancer can happen. Growing up, this mentality rubbed off on me. I just assumed cancer was something that would never affect me. My mother didn’t even know what it was.

Yet now I’m a 29-year-old living with cancer. How do you explain to your mum, the woman you worship, that you have an incurable disease? One that she’d never even heard of? I really struggled to deliver that message. Translating the severity of my situation was so difficult. I almost envied her ignorance of the disease. The turning point in her understanding came when she said: "The spots are inside you." She was talking about my tumour.

I felt like I was letting my family down when I got my diagnosis. The mentality of shame is so prevalent in south Asia when it comes to illness and I had this outlook ingrained in my mind. Bound up in this are the implications of growing up as a second-generation immigrant. Coming from an immigrant family, you’re constantly having to prove yourself and your worth to society. I didn’t want to appear weak. Thoughts were constantly swirling in my head: What will people think, what will they say? I even suffered post-traumatic stress in the weeks following my diagnosis. The reality of my situation, though, was so far removed from the feelings that had dominated my mind. I've been lucky; my family have been so supportive, as have my friends. I have an incredible support network.

Before my diagnosis, the C-word had never been discussed in my family. I didn’t know anyone with cancer, it wasn’t hereditary and because I was so young, it wasn’t even remotely on my radar. Since I opened up, my aunt revealed that her mum had breast cancer, twice, in the past two decades. We had absolutely no idea. They’d kept it to themselves, not only while she was going through treatment but in the years since, when she’s been in remission. She also disclosed that her father, who recently passed away, died of bone cancer. Bad situations just aren’t discussed, even in the closest of families. I was truly astonished.

Now that’s all changed. I feel so passionately about encouraging people, especially those from an ethnic minority background, to step forward and tell their stories. Women have a hard time in south Asian culture. There’s a cultural conditioning, whereby women are seen as inferior to men. I want to change that, to help women feel able to speak out and share their experiences. To break the taboo surrounding health in south Asian and immigrant culture.

At the recommendation of a close friend I decided to start a blog: Curry and Cancer. My mum and I set up a restaurant, Masala Wala, in southeast London almost four years ago and being able to combine my two worlds – as a restaurateur and cancer patient – has provided me with a sense of normality again. More conversation is needed to break that shame mentality. I wanted to show people the realities of living with cancer and that a diagnosis doesn’t have to define you. It’s been so therapeutic for me, and my family have been incredibly encouraging. It’s been healing for all of us, to be able to talk more openly and share our emotions.

I still wake up some mornings and can’t believe that cancer has happened to me. It’s extremely rare for someone my age to be diagnosed with lung cancer; the majority of people are over 60. But cancer is a disease that is faceless, raceless and ageless. I’m slowly learning to live with it. At the moment my health is stable, and I'm receiving palliative treatment in the form of targeted therapy. I take a chemotherapy pill called afatinib and I’ve had substantial tumour reductions. I’ve even managed to start exercising again. I also recently got married to the love of my life. It’s not how I expected to be going into my 30s, but I’m going to work with the situation I’ve been given; as a British Pakistani restaurateur with lung cancer. I’m determined to live my life.

Saima is supporting Stand Up To Cancer, a campaign from Cancer Research UK and Channel 4 to accelerate groundbreaking cancer research and save lives. Check out her blog here and her restaurant here.

Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?

How To Cope With Your Period During A Heatwave

How To Sleep When It’s Hot Outside & You Don’t Have AC

Why FGM Needs To Be Taught In Primary Schools

If you couldn't already tell by the title of Jonah Hill's directorial debut, mid90s, the movie is a throwback to the decade of teenage angst. But we're not talking about the Clueless kind, with Alaïa dresses and scrunchies everywhere. For Hill, the decade was mostly spent inside an L.A. skate shop, listening to A Tribe Called Quest and wearing éS SAL 23s. This movie isn't for the Cher Horowitzs of the worlds, but for the young Jonahs who found solace in a community of outcasts.

For Hill to tell the story just right, the cast, the music, and the fashion had to be believable — and the hair played a major role in that. Even for a movie that employed young skaters as amateur actors, Hill hired a trusted hair team, headed by Lori Guidroz, to make the sure that even the smallest details (like Stevie’s shag or Ruben's buzzcut) felt authentic. So, how did they get the skating subculture right when it's so often inaccurately portrayed onscreen? We asked Guidroz — and she answered.

Guidroz shares her personal relationship to skater hair, the real story behind Lucas Hedges' eyelashes, and Hill's acute attention to detail, ahead.

Warning: This story contains spoilers for mid90s.

This film bleeds '90s skate culture. How did you make sure it was authentic to not only a specific group of people, but also to one particular decade?
"What was so funny about it all is my boyfriend, Rodney Mullen, is a pro skateboarder. I used him sort of like a model throughout the film. It's always fun to do a period film and even more fun to do one with Jonah because he's so specific about every detail. He really didn't want this to be a movie about '90s hair porn or have someone watch it and say, 'Oh, that's '90s hair.' He collaborated with production design, wardrobe, and myself to make sure everything would blend and be subtle. The story had to drive the movie, not anyone's look in particular."

How did you recreate '90s skater hair?
"I really looked to religious skaters to guide my hand and make the characters unique and individual, but still function together and seem real. Sometimes people on the outskirts of the skating subculture think they have to create this certain look. But the real hardcore skaters, like Tony Hawk, didn't put all that attention on their hair, but on their skills. My boyfriend also had a lot of old magazines, so I pulled from archives to make inspiration boards for Jonah to see."

Sunny Suljic's character, Stevie, has amazing hair. Is there a reason you kept it so long?
"My boyfriend had that longer look when he was younger, so I wanted Stevie's hair to look really grown out, too. Sunny would come in first thing in the morning, straight out of bed every day and look like a madman. I'd wet his hair, style it, and then unstyle it because it couldn't look done or like he'd been in a hair chair all morning."

Na-Kel Smith, who plays Ray, is a pro skater in real life. Did you change his look at all?
"No, he came in and we left his hair as is. I did do some research on Black skaters from the '90s, like Kareem Campbell, because, again, we really tried to keep it real."

Was there anyone's hair you did have to change for the film?
"I decided to buzz Gio Galicia's hair for his character Ruben. His hair was really long in real life, but I pitched to Jonah that we should cut it really short and he agreed. At first, Gio was like, 'I'm not cutting my hair. I'm not cutting my hair!' But Jonah finally convinced him that he was an actor and it'll grow back. Actually, I had Jonah do the first few buzzes on Gio's head to get him more comfortable with it before we cut it all off."

Lucas Hedges also looked very different in this movie thanks to his darker hair. What was his routine like?
"Lucas is the sweetest, softest person, ever. Since he has natural strawberry-blonde hair, light eyebrows, and even lighter eyelashes, we had to dye it all. He had to look as dark as his character, who really was this menacing prick. I had to tell Lucas to not wash his hair so often because the colour we used washed out so easily. I dyed it at least five or six times while filming."

Leaving the theatre, I heard everyone talking about Olan Prenatt 's gorgeous hair. Is it really that beautiful in real life?
"Oh, he showed up with the most beautiful hair. I can't take any credit for that. Jonah wanted him to keep that hair. He had the most hair out of all the boys, but he didn't take too long to get ready for set. I'd always put a little something in everyone's hair just so they felt like they were being taken care of; I liked to specifically use this hair bar I make on Olan's curls. It's a mix of beeswax and cocoa shea butter, so it really made his hair look a little unclean and less fuzzy."

How did you handle the scenes leading up to the car accident? It looked brutally hot out that day...
"I had to wet them all down with water because the weather would fluctuate so much. I wanted it to feel like they were really sweating, drinking, and just a mess. So, I'd mist Sunny down and wet along his hairline, so it'd feel like he was skating all day in the sun. There were other times when we would have them driving around and it would just have to be what is was. Jonah didn't want the kids to feel like they were in the movie and have them touched up over and over again. He wanted to capture their real moments."

Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?

Selena Gomez Has The Best Tattoo Collection — & No One Ever Noticed

Kate Beckinsale Is Rocking A Blonde Bob For Summer — & It Looks So Good

Leighton Meester Just Went Blair-Waldorf Brunette

Launched in Somerset in the West Country in 1971 (with a £500 loan from a mother to her enterprising son), the British luxury brand and leather goods specialist Mulberry may not be as gargantuan as the designer labels grouped under the LVMH or Kering umbrellas, but it can proudly lay claim to producing one of the most famous and successful handbag designs of all time: the Bayswater. Created by Nicholas Knightly and launched in 2003, the Bayswater became a major player in the early '00s 'It Bag' era (one of the more dizzyingly hysterical recent fashion periods, and a precursor to the current 'ugly trainer' epidemic). The first British bag to achieve such coveted status, Mulberry's Bayswater gained a strong following among A-listers and wealthy consumers, but its sub-£1,000 pricing also made it an aspirational luxury purchase accessible to fashion fans with more average budgets.

The opposite of a fast fashion flash in the pan, the Bayswater has become an enduring classic for Mulberry. As later Mulberry creative director Emma Hill once put it: "I have a Bayswater, my son's grandmother has a Bayswater, Kate Moss has a Bayswater." The structured and unfussy design has been likened to old-school doctors' bags, but it manages – paradoxically – to also be soft and accommodating, with an expandable concertina structure and iconic postman's lock fastening. Its influence can easily be seen in Hill's own 'It Bag' moments: the Alexa, a school satchel style named after Alexa Chung; and the Del Rey, an old Hollywood glam style in honour of Lana Del Rey.

Every subsequent Mulberry creative director has put their unique spin on the Bayswater, and current creative director Johnny Coca is no exception. Speaking candidly about the issues he wanted to address in 2016, Coca told The Telegraph: "The [Bayswater’s] internal pocket is at the back, so you can’t reach into it so easily. The straps make it heavy and a bit clumsy at the sides… The hardware is dull looking, the padlock is unnecessary." It may seem a brutal assessment, but Coca's updated Bayswater was respectful to the iconic design, while fixing those few niggling negatives. Its launch last year caused Mulberry’s profits to rise 21% – a welcome good-news story for the company after a previous chief exec’s pivot to ultra luxury (with bags costing over £7,000) had alienated the accessible luxury market.

In 2018, Mulberry is again looking for a smash hit. When major British stockist House Of Fraser went into administration earlier this year (with store closures and an uncertain future under new owner Mike Ashley of Sports Direct), Mulberry was owed £2.4 million by the retailer (which Ashley doesn't have to pay back), and it was forced to issue a profit warning. But if anyone can deliver the next Bayswater, Johnny Coca is an excellent candidate. Born in Seville, in southern Spain, Coca studied and worked in interior design before taking a job as a window dresser at Louis Vuitton, where, after just a few weeks, he was transferred to the design team, working on bags. At 24 years old, Coca had his first hit with the Vuitton Musette; later, after moving to Celine, he worked on Michael Kors' hit Boogie Bag, and the Trio (a simple, three-pocketed zip bag) under Phoebe Philo.

"A great bag needs good design, good functionality, good quality materials," Coca tells Refinery29. "The Bayswater is an iconic style for Mulberry and is a style that I really love because it’s easy, functional and has nice proportions," he explains. "I want to make things that people desire, that people use, things that they will keep and things that will be part of their lives." Enter the Hampstead, a new handbag style designed by Coca that launches this week in store and online. Debuted as part of Mulberry’s Spring Summer 19 collection, the Hampstead continues the brand’s traditional mix of English heritage and modern luxury. "Play with the classic, twist the conventional, use the familiar to make something inspiring and new," as Coca puts it.

"For this new season, I was looking at a defining moment in British culture – the Swinging Sixties, and its hedonistic and iconic imagery," Coca says. "I wanted something fun, dynamic, lighthearted, candid, graphic and pop. It’s a collection that revisits the spirit of the '60s with the attitude of today." The handbag is named after Hampstead Ponds – the historic open-air swimming pools in north London – and seeks to reflect "the hedonistic love of leisure and the easy-wear fashion" of '60s Britain. A pleasingly boxy bucket bag with a small top handle as well as a detachable shoulder strap, the Hampstead is made from soft leather and closes with drawstrings fed through an adapted rider’s lock – a recent Mulberry signature. Made from 34 different pattern pieces, each bag takes Mulberry’s craftspeople four hours to hand-make.

In an age of fast fashion and devastating over-consumption, Mulberry’s dedication to quality handmade luxury products, which are expected to last, is refreshing. "Sustainability is an essential question in all industries worldwide, and we are all responsible for ensuring that manufacturing processes evolve the right way," Coca says. "As a designer, I try and make the small changes I can for the environment such as keeping over 50% of our products to be made in England by local craftspeople rather than have them made overseas, which would have a heavier ecological impact." (In 2006, the brand launched an apprenticeship scheme with a local Somerset college, training a new generation of skilled craftspeople.)

While the heady success of the Bayswater would likely be difficult to replicate – following the global recession, UK austerity, and amid ongoing Brexit shambles – the Hampstead is certainly a contender. With a large version retailing at £995, and a cute smaller option for £795, the bag is certainly a luxury item, but one that is in reach for many consumers who want to buy luxury but wouldn’t spend multiple thousands. With a range of playful, interchangeable shoulder straps (starting from £75) available to buy, the Hampstead is exactly the kind of chic, fun and affordable style that can set fashion Instagram on fire. For extra fearless fashion points, shoots should coincide with a winter dip in Hampstead Heath Ladies Pond.

Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?

Kim Kardashian & Ariana Grande Address Allegations Against Photographer Marcus Hyde

3 Ways To Wear Bleached Denim Without Feeling Like You've Gone Back In Time

Extinction Rebellion Activists Model Stella McCartney's Latest Campaign

Today, Twitter announced that it is rethinking everything, including the future of the "like" button, in an effort to incentivise "healthy conversation" on the social media platform.

At a company event last week, founder Jack Dorsey said that he planned to get rid of the identifying feature "soon," reports the Telegraph. Dorsey went one step further to say that he "was not a fan of the heart-shaped button."

The future of the button was also addressed by the Twitter communications team in a tweet which read:

"As we've been saying for a while, we are rethinking everything about the service to ensure we are incentivising healthy conversation, that includes the like button. We are in the early stages of the work and have no plans to share right now."

As we've been saying for a while, we are rethinking everything about the service to ensure we are incentivizing healthy conversation, that includes the like button. We are in the early stages of the work and have no plans to share right now. https://t.co/k5uPe5j4CW

— Twitter Comms (@TwitterComms) October 29, 2018

We first got a glimpse of Dorsey's opinions on his own and other similar platforms in a recent text conversation with Kanye West. In a now deleted Instagram post, Dorsey agreed with West about some of the toxic aspects of vanity metrics and follower culture saying, “We want to incentivise contribution to the global conversation and consciousness.”

Twitter has been in the news repeatedly as its users question why the platform continues to verify accounts of known white supremacists while failing to consistently address accounts espousing hate-filled ideologies that are racist, antisemitic, and homophobic. Rather than removing reportable rhetoric, this design shift to promote healthy debate would make it less publicly known who supports questionable tweets which have been a proven precursor to dangerous behaviour, as was the case with the mail bomb suspect, Cesar Altieri Sayoc. On one hand, it would give less of a publicised platform to hateful tweets. Currently, likes are public. The move would also raise questions about how Twitter prioritises and promotes tweets.

The like button has taken on various forms over the years. Originally in the shape of a star to favourite tweets, the heart-shaped like button was added as a replacement in 2015. “Us making that number bold and big incentivises people to want to increase it, and feel bad if they couldn’t. That’s not right," Dorsey continued. But the toxicity has gone beyond comparison and social pressure as people take their opinions offline and into the real world.

Twitter users aren't excited about the news. Many see it as attempting to fix a non-issue while ignoring bigger, more glaring problems.

Finally. Twitter is getting rid of the biggest problem on their platform - the LIKE button!!! We’ve all had enough verbal harassment, death or rape threats from that LIKE button. It’s time the LIKE button went. Cuz that sure is Twitter’s biggest problem, the LIKE button. @jack

— JEN KIRKMAN (@JenKirkman) October 29, 2018

Users: hey can you get rid of the Nazis please

Twitter: ok sure, we've changed the stars to hearts for likes

Users: no no, zero Nazis please

Twitter: yep we're getting rid of Vine

Users: nah hey, what about the Nazis

Twitter: ok ok fine, no more likes https://t.co/HKE0BrCiVU

— Josh Butler (@JoshButler) October 29, 2018

When twitter removes the like button instead of the Nazi’s pic.twitter.com/UCNrkXu542

— Matthew A. Cherry (@MatthewACherry) October 29, 2018

Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?

If Instagram Gets Rid Of Like Counts, What Will It Mean For Influencers?

We’re Obsessed With FaceApp Because Ageing Is A Privilege In A World Imploding

From The Jonas Brothers To The Fab Five: The Funniest Celeb FaceApp Photos

Of all the trendy plants — we're talking fiddle leaf figs, cute little cacti, etc. — succulents just might be the trendiest. Maybe it's their vaguely prehistoric looks or the fact that they're easier to keep alive than most of their viridescent brethren, but the love for these plants is real. So real, in fact, that there's a sizeable Instagram subculture dedicated to sharing images of them. Welcome, my friends, to Succugram.

Seriously, succulents just may have more fan accounts than Beyonce and Ariana Grande combined. So if your feed is feeling in need of a little something green and leafy, read on for our recommendations of which ones to follow. Just remember: Digital succulent super-fandom is weirdly habit-forming. If you suddenly find yourself waking in the middle of the night to view (or post) images of out-of-this-world succulents, well, don't say we didn't warn you.

Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?

10 Desk Plants That Will Bring Your Office To Life

You Have to Wear Fabric Boots To Walk Into Kim Kardashian West's Home

I Pay £2,300 For My One-Bedroom Apartment In Long Island City

Carey Mulligan has joined the long line of women dissatisfied with the cost of childcare available to working mothers. She described it as "so expensive" and said it was "incredibly difficult" being a mother working in film and TV.

The 33-year-old British actor, who has two young children with husband Marcus Mumford, said she'd never worked anywhere with on-set childcare and described film and TV environments as "limiting" for mothers.

"I don’t think being a working mother in our industry has been made that much easier. It’s incredibly difficult. Childcare is so expensive," she told the Radio Times. "I’ve never, ever been on a set where they have childcare, but I’ve been on lots of sets where lots of people have very young children … I had my daughter on the set of [the films] Mudbound and Wildlife and loads of the crew had kids, but they had to arrange childcare. It’s always incredibly complicated."

If on-set childcare were available, Mulligan continued, "it would make it possible for a lot of talented people to come and do their job." She added: "At the moment, it's limiting."

Mulligan and Mumford's first child, Evelyn, was born in September 2015 and accompanied her on set of 2017 Oscar-nominated film Mudbound. Mulligan filmed this year's BBC Two drama Collateral while pregnant with the couple's second child, Wilfred (who was born in 2017), after programme writer Sir David Hare made her character pregnant in a rewrite, reported the BBC.

Mulligan also said the industry wasn't accepting enough of pregnant actors. "I don't think we're at the level where it's acceptable across the board yet. I think if people can hide it, they do," she told the magazine.

Mulligan joins Keira Knightley in her dissatisfaction with the state of childcare, and in her openness in sharing the difficulty of balancing parenting with an acting career. In an interview in 2016, the actor described UK childcare as "unbelievably expensive" and said she'd "become unbelievably aware" of how lucky she was "to be able to afford really good childcare" since becoming a parent.

"Because otherwise it would be at least four years out of my career," she added.

A report last month found that the rise in childcare costs in the UK is far outstripping wage rises. Childcare fees have soared by 52% over the past decade, compared with a 17% rise in earnings over that period, the Trades Union Congress found.

Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?

Farewell Theresa May, The Prime Minister Who Made No Sense

"He's Older Than My Grandfather": Westminster's Sexual Harassment Scandal

A Brief History Of Our New Prime Minister's Most Sexist & Homophobic Comments

Bring on the cold. Rephrase: Bring on Autumn/Winter 2018 and its lineup of hot trends, because we’ve got a rail of brightly coloured tweeds and blanket capes to wear. With that in mind, we've rounded up the most compelling trends to keep you wrapped up in style this season. And because no outfit is complete without the magical change-a-look-in-seconds accessory, we’ve teamed up with Charles & Keith (Molly Goddard's go-to for her SS19 show) to suggest the perfect finishing touches, from winter’s must-have white mule to a totally 'grammable glitzy bag.

Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?

Kim Kardashian & Ariana Grande Address Allegations Against Photographer Marcus Hyde

3 Ways To Wear Bleached Denim Without Feeling Like You've Gone Back In Time

Extinction Rebellion Activists Model Stella McCartney's Latest Campaign

As Ivanka Trump turns 37, we've decided to look back at all the ways she could have used her platform to speak up in the past year.

She's had a big year, traveling around the country to talk about job training, shutting down her fashion brand, and sometimes disagreeing with her father (although only behind the scenes). Throughout her first political job as White House senior advisor, we've learned that she likes to stay in her comfort zone: Working on bipartisan issues like workforce development and human trafficking, rather than tackling healthcare or gun reform. Making appearances on Fox News, never MSNBC or CNN.

We're by no means suggesting Ivanka should have done all of the things outlined here. We are also not hoping or expecting for her to do so. But given how large of a platform she has, there are a lot of missed opportunities. It's no coincidence that, according to a new poll from Refinery29 and CBS News, only 18% of women ages 18 to 35 said they view her favourably, while 46% hold a negative attitude toward her.

Ahead, all the times Ivanka could have made an impact in the past year.

1. Instead of just tweeting about #MeToo and #TimesUp, she could have addressed the administration's rollbacks to Title IX campus sexual assault guidelines and the huge cuts to Violence Against Women Act programs that help vulnerable communities.

2. After Parkland, when students were asking for solutions and got tone-deaf platitudes and unpopular promises to arm teachers from the administration instead, she could have made an impact by at least meeting with survivors.

3. For teachers who were striking as a result of low pay, given the dedication she says she has to the American worker.

4. She could have spoken up about the many Black people who received police visits this year for doing normal, everyday things like napping in their dorms —  and playing soccer, and entering their own apartment, and mowing the lawn, and eating lunch on campus, and campaigning for office — especially since it's white women who make most of these unnecessary calls.

5. At the height of the family separation crisis, which she didn't talk about until August, when she said that it was a "low point" for her.

6. On behalf of the people who were killed in mass shootings by men who have a history of abusing women, like at the Capital Gazette, Santa Fe, and Great Mills High School.

7. She could have addressed racially motivated violence, like the recent shooting in Louisville, KY, the Waffle House shooting, and the Austin bombing; and the Pittsburgh shooting, fuelled by anti-Semitism and not at all helped by her father's rhetoric.

8. When she had a chance to work with Democrats to craft a paid family leave law that goes beyond parental leave, but instead put her support behind a policy that falls short.

9. After promoting one of her father's "hire American" initiatives, Ivanka was widely criticised because her brand's clothing is made overseas. She could have addressed the controversy, but chose to say nothing.

10. The horrific conditions in ICE detention centres.

11. When the Trump administration capitalised on the murder of 20-year-old Mollie Tibbetts as an excuse to campaign for tough immigration laws.

12. She could have taken a position on the nomination of Justice Brett Kavanaugh; instead, she reportedly told her father to drop him behind the scenes but then took up support again, calling him a "good man." Even without taking a side in the Kavanaugh debate, she could have addressed the survivors who poured their hearts out protesting his nomination and the bravery of Dr. Christine Blasey Ford.

13. When Trump planned to eliminate recognition for transgender people.

14. Instead of simply condemning the sending of explosive devices to Trump critics like Hillary Clinton, Rep. Maxine Waters, and CNN on Twitter, she could have addressed the administration's ongoing hostility toward the media.

15. She could have made an effort to help with Hurricane Maria relief in Puerto Rico; more than 3,000 people died as a result of the hurricane, which the administration still refuses to acknowledge.

Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?

Two Police Officers Fired Over Facebook Post Threatening To Shoot AOC

Kamala Harris' Record As A Prosecutor, Explained

Wendy Davis, Known For Her 13-Hour Abortion Filibuster, Is Running For Congress

Is it just us, or does Zara love sneaking up on us? They've done it before — with a full beachwear collection that secretly launched on their site earlier this year. The masterminds behind our favourite high street retailer have now released an exciting new product range. On one of our weekly Zara lunch time scrolls, we spotted something brand-spanking new hidden in their new feature, "Corner Shops." Alongside collections pegged Dress Time, Timeless, TRF and Join Life is a shop made entirely of fashion-forward maternity wear, a new line called Mum.

We have to give it to them — this is some seriously good timing. With Meghan Markle and Prince Harry expecting their first child this spring, there's no better time than now for Zara to jump on the maternity bandwagon. And after scrolling through the collection, we're just waiting for our favourite pregnant Duchess to be spotted donning a piece or two. From long dress coats to fitted knit dresses, this collection was basically made for the royal mother-to-be. So, we say, beat Meghan Markle to the punch and snatch up one (or all) of Zara's maternity pieces ahead. It's only a matter of time before you're #twinning with the Duchess of Sussex.

At Refinery29 UK, we’re here to help you navigate this overwhelming world of stuff. All of our market picks are independently selected and curated by the editorial team. If you buy something we link to on our site, Refinery29 may earn commission.

Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?

These High-Cut Swimsuits Will Give You Legs For Days

Your Hot Weather Survival Hack: Clothes That Don’t Touch Your Body

5 Plus Size Women Name Their Best Purchase Of 2019 So Far

Learning to drive is dangerous. Your life is quite literally in your instructor's hands, so she or (most likely) he needs to be someone you trust and feel comfortable with – not someone whose own behaviour leaves you fearing for your safety.

But women are sharing accounts of the inappropriate comments, sexual harassment and worse that they've experienced at the hands of male driving instructors. More than 20 women have reported being sexually harassed or assaulted by their driving instructors to the Everyday Sexism project within the last fortnight, while more than 100 had done so in the past six years, its founder Laura Bates wrote on The Guardian today.

Women recalled tales of being young, vulnerable and powerless in the presence of more powerful older men. If you think about it, a driving lesson – in a confined space, with no one else present to stand by a victim's account of the situation and nowhere for them to escape to – is the perfect environment for a predator to strike. It's only in our post- #MeToo world, with female victims of abusive men more likely to be believed (or so we hope), that many women feel comfortable sharing their accounts. Who knows how many more have been swept under the rug in decades past?

As someone who was on the receiving end of similar behaviour for over a year between 2016 and 2017, this didn't surprise me one bit. I was 24 when I first started driving lessons, and while I thank my lucky stars that I was never physically harmed, it was bad enough that I couldn't continue learning without changing instructor (wasting months of learning time).

The middle aged, married man in question took an unhealthy interest in my sex and dating life, asking if I'd slept with men I'd been on dates with, and trying to enlist me to help him cheat on his wife, who was apparently too "out of shape" for his flabby self. He'd scroll through explicit pictures of random women he’d added on Facebook and ask me what to say to "turn them on". I remembered having to prove I could read number plates when I signed up for lessons, but didn't recall needing to prove my sexting expertise.

He'd comment on my body, too, describing me as "too athletic" and regularly saying I'd be more attractive with "more meat" on my bones. "If I wanted a thin woman I'd go to B&Q to buy a rake," he told me once. He’d point out other women's breasts and bums to me as they passed by. What had he expected me to say in response? Another time, he looked me up on Facebook during the lesson and added me later that evening. I declined and never arranged another lesson.

He insisted on a hug and then bombarded me with Facebook friend requests

Judging from the stories other women have shared with Refinery29, this creepy behaviour is not isolated. Alice Heather, 21, from London, had an eerily similar experience four years ago. Her instructor, a married man with children, would regularly probe her with personal questions (like if she "worked out" or had "a lucky guy"), call her pet names, and touch her hands on the wheel and gear stick too often to be justified as "helpful".

On one occasion down a dark country road, she claims he sensed her nerves and assured her: "Don't worry, I'm not going to murder you." The behaviour continued once he and Heather parted ways. "When I passed my test he insisted on a hug and then bombarded me with Facebook friend requests. I'd ignore them and eventually had to block him."

Luckily, Heather claims to have been a savvy, mature 17-year-old, so rather than giving her instructor what he (presumably) wanted, his behaviour made her "cringe". "I knew his type from working in hospitality and dealing with creepy old men, so I wasn’t going to fall for his crap," she adds, but admits she still wishes she'd reported him.

Sara Webster (not her real name), 37, recalled receiving a Valentine's card and chocolates from her married instructor. "It’s only looking back that I realise how dodgy it was. He used to add on an extra hour to my lessons for free and delay putting me forward for my test," she said, adding that she's sure the experience led to her failing first time.

He leaned forwards and kissed me squarely on the mouth

"I was 100% ready for the test and looking back, he definitely held me back on purpose. I was so naive and introverted and politeness was everything so I never said anything. And I still can’t drive!"

A minority of women feel endangered to the extent that the only option is to report their instructor to the police. Lana Shiel, 26, from Enfield, north London, took this step after being harassed by a married instructor in his 50s. He began touching her after a few months and the pattern culminated in assault. "He started to hug me at the end of the lessons, and I know Turkish culture so didn’t think too much of it. But when he asked for a 'cuddle' at the end of a lesson, the phrasing made me feel uncomfortable.

"I declined but he either didn’t hear or pretended not to hear and hugged me anyway. I let it slide," she said. This pattern continued until one day, he went in for a kiss. "He went to hug me and I could see his lips tracing out a pathway to mine. Short of time, I turned my head sharply into the headrest, so he hugged me and ended up planting a kiss on my right cheek."

Despite her struggles to move away, she continued, "he held my head in place, cocked his head to the side, smiled, then leaned forwards and kissed me squarely on the mouth. I was in complete shock that he would be so brazen, so decided against confronting it at the time. I said thank you for the lesson, smiled and removed myself from the car."

It was a police officer friend who encouraged her to report the incident to her local force. "I called the police when I was at home to file a report and they came to my house the next evening to take a statement. I was very surprised at my reaction to this, considering I'd been sexually assaulted by a senior at work when I was 18.

"I was much more vocal and proactive about reporting it than I was this time round. The scale of assault then was much larger though, so I felt 'not enough' had happened on this occasion to warrant calling the police." But it was the officers who deemed it sexual assault rather than harassment, as contact had happened and there was intent, and she had resisted him and turned away to show she wasn't consenting. She cut ties with him immediately and is planning on reporting him to the Driver and Vehicle Standards Agency (DVSA).

The DVSA updated its guidelines in February, warning instructors that if they became sexually involved with 16- or 17-year-olds they could face punishment, even if it was consensual. It revealed it had conducted 109 investigations into instructor misconduct, including inappropriate sexual behaviour, between 2016-2017, and encouraged learners to report inappropriate behaviour.

If you have experienced sexual violence of any kind, please visit Rape Crisis or call 0808 802 9999.

Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?

Farewell Theresa May, The Prime Minister Who Made No Sense

"He's Older Than My Grandfather": Westminster's Sexual Harassment Scandal

A Brief History Of Our New Prime Minister's Most Sexist & Homophobic Comments

Last week, theNew York Times reported on a Trump administration memo from the Department of Health and Human Services that could legally ignore the existence of transgender people in the US. In the memo, the HHS defined gender as “a biological, immutable condition determined by genitalia at birth.” Many transgender and non-binary people claim that defining gender in this way is attempting to erase trans people from existence. Refinery29 has asked a mum who's active in PFLAG (the nation's first and largest organisation for LGBTQ+ people, their families, and allies) to share her thoughts on the memo, and how policies like this could affect her transgender daughter's life.

When I was asked to write this piece, I immediately said yes, not knowing exactly what to say, but driven by a fire in the pit of my stomach and the need to scream out. I have typed and deleted, typed and deleted, over and over for the last week, tongue tied because I am required now, in this moment, to say the unfathomable out loud: I live in a country whose leaders — and many others — want to erase my daughter from existence.

When my child was only 10 years old, we sat on the front porch of my home, where all of the important conversations happened, and she mustered up all the courage she had in her tiny body to say, “I am not a boy, I am a girl. I always have been. I have always known who I am and now you do too.” I wasn't the least bit shocked. While at that time I may not have had any real experience with transgender people, I always knew she was different (and in the best possible ways!). Finally at 10 years old, I saw her and heard her—and she blossomed. Bullying stopped, friendships were made, grades went up, and her self-esteem went through the roof. My quiet, withdrawn, lonely child was gone and was replaced with a child so full of life and light, it could blind you. Supported and loved by her friends, with teachers and others who have cared for her and fought for her, she is perfectly made and exactly who she was born to be.

When the news broke last week that this administration wants to “adopt an explicit and uniform definition of gender ” that “would define sex as either male or female, unchangeable, and determined by the genitals that a person is born with,” many were surprised. I suppose I should have been, too. But the truth is that, as the mother of a transgender child, I have seen poor policies and legislation play out repeatedly in ways that are not only discriminatory, but life- threatening.

Earlier this month, my daughter was left out of an active shooter drill at her school because teachers had been told not to allow her in either the male or female locker rooms. While her peers gathered together quietly in the middle of the locker room, protected and prepared, my daughter was forced to sit vulnerable and unprotected in the gym, then alone in a hallway, near— but not inside — the locker rooms. When she came home, she stated the obvious: “If there had been an active shooter, I would have been the first to go.”

When she told me what happened, I was enraged, with that rage later turning to sadness. In that moment my daughter’s life was considered last. Worse, her physical safety was debated because nobody knew what to do with her, although as a transgender girl, she is just that: a girl.

I will fight so that my daughter, and kids like her, aren’t erased or diminished or harmed.

Since the incident happened, our community has shown more love and support than I could have ever imagined. A school board meeting was packed with signs and flags; neighbours spoke out against what had happened and in support of my daughter and other transgender youth across our county. Most surprising? After years of discrimination and rules that not only isolated my daughter but also could have ended her life in this most recent situation, an apology was made from the very school leaders who helped make those rules. This traumatic and devastating situation put a national spotlight on how transgender students are treated in our school system, and across the country. In our district, policies are now being reviewed. Conversations are happening. Progress, finally.

Then, mere days later, the memo.

So what now? What do school systems that want to do the right thing by transgender and gender-expansive youth do when our own President and his administration suggests policies that will erase my daughter and other kids like her? What happens when she is denied access to a job because there is no protection for transgender workers, or denied housing, or an education, or access to facilities and services when discrimination becomes legally permissible? This destructive policy would do nothing other than put an already-vulnerable community at further risk…or worse? Erase them entirely.

For almost 17 years I have been a mum: A working mum, then a stay-at-home mum, then a working mum again; a soccer mum at the fields every weekend; a concerned mum, worried about the day-to-day stuff like too much screen time and getting good grades; and I’m also a PFLAG mum, one of my most important roles advocating for, educating about, and supporting LGBTQ+ youth, especially my own daughter. And while this administration and others conspire to do all they can to dim her light, she still remains unafraid and empowered. So I will follow her lead. I will fight so that my daughter, and kids like her, aren’t erased or diminished or harmed. And I will ask you to join me by speaking out and letting transgender, non-binary, and intersex people know that you have their backs — and I will also ask you to join me in voting on November 6th (or earlier if you live in a place where early voting is an option) for leaders and legislation that support people like my daughter. Because she matters…and she will not be erased.

Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?

Can’t Afford A Trainer? These Are The Best Workout Apps

How To Tell If You're Wearing The Right Running Shoes For Your Feet

This Is What Colour Your Pee Is Supposed To Be

It's been 282 days since news broke that Hedi Slimane would take over the reins at Celine. And, it's not like we're counting or anything, but boy, are we tired.

In September, the French designer presented his debut collection for the label to a storm surge of criticism. We won't go there, but there's plenty a reaction piece to get you up to speed. For nearly a year, meanwhile, we've been wondering what's next for Philo. Well, it looks like we may (finally) have our answer: The British designer is set to participate in a panel at the Engadin Art Talks in Switzerland on January 26 and 27. It'll be one of Philo's first (and maybe only) appearances in years as she takes a break from fashion to tend to her private life.

The arts festival strives to connect art, design, film, architecture, science, and literature with what they're calling a "holistic visitors’ experience" in the Alpine ski resort of Zuoz. Philo will join other speakers that include Juergen Teller (the photographer who lensed many of her iconic campaigns), musician Anthony Moore, architect Arno Brandlhuber, choreographer Cecilia Bengolea, and artist Lena Henke, among a few others. The theme of the talk is "How do gravity and grace define current-day life in the digital age?,'" which the tech-shy Philo will surely have no problem shedding light on.

Following her departure from Chloé in 2006, the designer took two years off to raise her daughter Maya. And now, after leaving Celine with no plans to rejoin fashion anytime soon, it seems Philo is still in a reflection phase — with no announcement on whether she'll join another label or start her own. We're not rushing her or anything, but we can't be the only ones with crossed fingers that an audience member, or the moderator, will probe Philo on approximately when we can expect a comeback. Either way, we're cool with her taking her time. But like, just don't take too long — ya know?

Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?

Extinction Rebellion Activists Model Stella McCartney's Latest Campaign

H&M Will Debut Its First Chinese Designer Capsule Collection This Autumn

Ji Won Choi’s Fresh Take On Adidas Streetwear Is Inspired By Her Korean Heritage

Has Kanye West woken up?

Over the weekend at the Young Black Leadership Summit in Washington, D.C., Turning Point USA communications director Candace Owens claimed that the “Black Skinhead” rapper had designed t-shirts and hats for “Blexit,” an initiative that encourages Black Americans to leave the Democratic party. Calling West her “dear friend and fellow superhero,” the controversial Owens revealed that the logos and colours of the merchandise came from the brain of Yeezy.

Yeezy says… not exactly. On Twitter Tuesday, the self-proclaimed Donald Trump supporter who appeared on stage at Saturday Night Live in a MAGA hat walked back on his bold political statements of the past few months.

“I introduced Candace to the person who made the logo and they didn’t want their name on it so she used mine. I never wanted any association with Blexit. I have nothing to do with it,” he wrote on the social media platform.

I introduced Candace to the person who made the logo and they didn’t want their name on it so she used mine. I never wanted any association with Blexit. I have nothing to do with it.

— ye (@kanyewest) October 30, 2018

“My eyes are now wide open and now realize I’ve been used to spread messages I don’t believe in. I am distancing myself from politics and completely focusing on being creative,” he added.

My eyes are now wide open and now realize I’ve been used to spread messages I don’t believe in. I am distancing myself from politics and completely focusing on being creative !!!

— ye (@kanyewest) October 30, 2018

Earlier Tuesday, West tweeted what he does believe in, stating on Twitter:

“I support creating jobs and opportunities for people who need them the most, I support prison reform, I support common-sense gun laws that will make our world safer.”

I support creating jobs and opportunities for people who need them the most, I support prison reform, I support common-sense gun laws that will make our world safer.

— ye (@kanyewest) October 30, 2018

“I support those who risk their lives to serve and protect us and I support holding people who misuse their power accountable. I believe in love and compassion for people seeking asylum and parents who are fighting to protect their children from violence and war.”

I support those who risk their lives to serve and protect us and I support holding people who misuse their power accountable.

I believe in love and compassion for people seeking asylum and parents who are fighting to protect their children from violence and war.

— ye (@kanyewest) October 30, 2018

It’s hard not to see the dramatic break between West’s beliefs and that of President Donald Trump, whom West met for lunch at the White House and declared made him “feel like Superman.” Proud “nationalist” Trump has called repeatedly for closed borders and, today, stated he would attempt to move forward with an immigration initiative that would end citizenship to children born in the United States to non-citizens. Trump expressed no interest in limiting gun rights in the wake of shooting massacres like the one over the weekend at the Tree of Life synagogue in Pittsburgh.

Refinery29 has reached out to West for comment.

Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?

A$AP Rocky Has Been Officially Charged With Assault

Anne Hathaway Just Announced She's Pregnant In Rare Personal Instagram

How Big Little Lies Did Bonnie A Major Disservice By Ignoring Her Race

If only there was a killer throwback beauty look to match every rad '90s jam. Queen Bey gave us just that today by posting her latest homage for Halloween: faux album cover art for Toni Braxton’s 1993 single, "Another Sad Love Song," featuring ‘Yoncé wearing Braxton’s exact hair and makeup. Shared via Instagram, the tribute is so spot-on that one of the only discernible differences between the original and mock versions can be found in a simple spelling change: Beyoncé is Phoni Braxton, y’all — and we're here for all its true '90s beauty, right down to the manicure.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Beyoncé (@beyonce) on Oct 30, 2018 at 12:53pm PDT

Let’s start with the hair: a pixie cut perfectly coiffed by longtime Beyoncé collaborator Kim Kimble. Meanwhile, the makeup look, created by Rokael Lizama has us seriously rethinking our cut crease obsession. Beige and sable shadows create natural definition — was this the original contour? — while precisely-lined brick red lips and a flutter of lashes placed on the outer corner of the eyes round out the look. Um, excuse us while we add MAC Spice Lip Pencil to cart.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by ☆Toni Braxton (F A N P A G E)☆ (@tonitigerz_) on Oct 30, 2018 at 1:17pm PDT

While we debate switching our own Halloween costume for something a little more late 20th century (hey, it's not too late!), we're left with one final nugget to love from Beyoncé's tribute post:

“Sending love and adoration to one of our talented legends," she wrote to Ms. Braxton. "Thank you for the countless bops. Your tone, your beauty, your range, and your God-given talent is treasured. Loving you always. Have a Happy Halloween my Kings and Queens.”

Phoni Braxton!? NEVER!!!
How do you look better than me on MY album cover?
I LOVE IT, Such a superstar!
Thanks for the love sis!
Happy Halloween 🎃
Who run the world...GIRLS! GIRLS! 💃🏽💃🏼@Beyonce pic.twitter.com/dFSbBrQV8Y

— Toni Braxton (@tonibraxton) October 30, 2018

For her part, Braxton returned the love with this sweet tweet, proving Halloween may come but once a year, but sisterhood is forever.

Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?

Selena Gomez Has The Best Tattoo Collection — & No One Ever Noticed

Kate Beckinsale Is Rocking A Blonde Bob For Summer — & It Looks So Good

Leighton Meester Just Went Blair-Waldorf Brunette

Welcome back to winter, kids. It's finally happened and there's no going back. It's darker, colder and generally just more miserable outside so any social obligations that involve being away from your warm, comfy bed really need to be worth the effort.

Which is why we're here to tell you what's on our list of things to do, see and experience in this awkward month of November (let's face it, we're all just waiting for Christmas anyway). You'll be glad to hear that it's a good month for films – the long-awaited Fantastic Beasts sequel is finally hitting cinemas, Viola Davis' hit Widows is almost upon us and if you're in the market for a thriller, Call Me By Your Name director Luca Guadagnino has something new (and very, very different) in store for you.

Out in the big bad world there's a welcome alternative to the annual mayhem of Hyde Park's Winter Wonderland, a couple of Instagram-worthy art exhibitions and the new music drops to listen to before everyone else. Here are the best things to fill your long, dark evenings with this month.

Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?

A$AP Rocky Has Been Officially Charged With Assault

Anne Hathaway Just Announced She's Pregnant In Rare Personal Instagram

How Big Little Lies Did Bonnie A Major Disservice By Ignoring Her Race

From Beauty Pie and Lixir to The Ordinary and Niod, when it comes to great beauty brands, we're already spoilt for choice here in the UK. But you might want to push your holy grail products to one side and make a little more room atop your bathroom shelf, because the Indie Beauty Expo has just brought an avalanche of shiny new launches.

The brainchild of aesthetician Jillian Wright and entrepreneur Nader Naeymi-Rad, the Indie Beauty Expo is a global event, recently established to shed light on all the niche, independent and totally unique beauty brands and buys trickling into the industry. Serving up everything from skincare and haircare to makeup and wellness products, it's a beauty circus meets marketplace, and last week, it came to London for the very first time.

Ahead, you'll find all the brands and products worth stockpiling – before anyone else catches on.

Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?

Bet You Didn't Know You Have To Put SPF HERE

You're Washing Your Face All Wrong, Says This Skin Expert

The Best Self Tanners To Fake Like You've Been On Holiday All Summer

Each autumn we look forward to investing in a great coat (faux fur and check are our favourite trends this season), but it can quickly start to feel like that one piece of outerwear is all you've got going on. So it doesn’t feel like Fashion Groundhog Day for the next five months until the sun re-emerges, we recommend switching it up with some accessories. From '70s mock-croc and snakeskin to practical, could-be-in-the-Highlands hiking boots, the AW18 catwalks threw up plenty of thrills. May we introduce you to autumn's best accessories, here to make the dark nights and short days a bit more bearable...

Make Yourself Clear

With Burberry's transparent trench, Celine's clear carry-on and Off-White's see-through collaboration with Jimmy Choo, this year we had nothing to hide. Perhaps it’s a result of our social media oversharing (what better way to show off your fashion month invites?). Maybe it’s a move towards a playful nostalgia (remember Jellies?). Either way, we’re carefully curating our bag's content and making ourselves clear. And it's not just handheld accessories that advocate transparency; these Neous crystal ball beauties are as much about art as footwear. Use as party shoes, bookends and atop coffee table tomes.

Staud Shirley PVC And Leather Tote, £175, available at Net-A-Porter, Neous Dopsis, £575, available at Neous

Reptilia

Animal prints – think zebra, leopard and cow – have reached all corners of our wardrobes this season, from coats to co-ords, but we’re more excited by the reptilian takeover of our accessories. This season’s most polished plus-ones are fashioned from either snake or croc (all ethical faux skins, of course), and while Hermès, Louis Vuitton and Tory Burch all had exotic offerings, two mid-range indie brands are leading the way. Miista has become a cult favourite thanks to its '70s-style ankle boots, while Staud continues to lead the pack with its mini chocolate tote. Layer up pieces – more is more.

Miista Macy Citrine Snake Leather Boots, £270, available at Miista, Staud Nic Croc-Effect Leather Tote, £320, available at Net-A-Porter, Mango Maxi Dress in Snake Print, £79.99, available at ASOS

Get Some Perspective

Wave goodbye to your ridiculously small micro bag, because this season your carryall gets the XXL treatment. Victoria Beckham had models touting bags big enough to climb inside for AW18, while MM6 Maison Margiela and Jil Sander made their oversized accessories the main event. Gucci’s offering was the most statement-making, with its signature serpent motif snaking around the logo. Sure, if filled to the brim, it would be as impractical as the micro bag; luckily we already culled our possessions to fit into that trend...

Gucci XL Printed Leather Tote, £3,150, available at Net-A-Porter

Take A Hike

If you’re taken by the ugliness of a chunky trainer or the functional appeal of a windbreaker, then say hello to AW18’s most wearable shoe. Whether you reach for Ganni’s performance boot collab with Diemme, or House of Holland x Grenson’s climbing rope pair, there’s a style for everyone. The trick to wearing them everywhere from the office to the pub? Dress down feminine silk slips and florals, which can sometimes feel too saccharine when paired with dainty heels. The hiking boot shouldn’t just be reserved for country pursuits – it’ll soon replace Nikes as the comfort-first commuter’s footwear of choice.

House Of Holland x Grenson Black Hiker Boots, £350, available at Urban Outfitters, Ganni Charron Ruffle Trimmed Gingham Dress, £160, available at Ganni

Best Western

When Raf Simons paid homage to America’s history with silk Western shirts and Clint Eastwood-style cowboy boots at Calvin Klein, people were apprehensive; there’s a fine line between fashion and fancy dress. But thanks to Westworld, summer’s eternal love affair with gingham, and the prevalence of frilled prairie dresses, the trend is here to stay. Still intimidated? Try Zara’s version – severe angles, yes, but the blush tone and patent finish make them a wish list favourite for AW18.

Zara Cowboy Ankle Boots, £69.99, available at Zara, Topshop Floral Coat, stylist’s own

Furry Friends

From Balenciaga’s fuzzy fuchsia handbag to Dolce & Gabbana’s embellished shaggy take, AW18’s most fun plus-one is faux fur. In need of some inspiration? Look to Preen by Thornton Bregazzi for Sesame Street -esque primary colours, while Shrimps continues to provide playful patterns for our inner child. Our pick of the season is Topshop’s ladylike number, with its tortoiseshell frame and chunky chain. The tactile bag is AW18’s most comforting trend – just keep it away from sticky dance floors come party season.

Topshop Faux Fur Frame Tortoiseshell Shoulder Bag, £25, available at Topshop

Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?

This '90s Wardrobe Staple Is Ruling Summer 2019

3 Ways To Wear Bleached Denim Without Feeling Like You've Gone Back In Time

The Worrying Truth Behind Boohoo's Buy Now, Pay Later Scheme